Silamide vs silk for padding and finishing

[Dunc]

As I mentioned in my jacket fitting thread, I've been working through one of the "International School of Tailoring" courses on YouTube, and I've found it very helpful.

In the lesson on preparing the undercollar for the baste fitting, he suggests using a waxed silamide thread for padding the collar, and that each length should be split into two threads to make it finer. I experimented with doing this with the Gutermann waxed finishing silk I bought for this project (the stuff that comes in a 750m hank), but it really didn't work... I was able to separate the two strands of the silk without too much trouble, but when trying to sew with one of them, it rapidly unravelled into a mass of fibres, turned into a clump, and broke. After a couple of attempts I gave up on it and just padded the undercollar with the silk as it comes.

Is it possible to split hand silk like this? Does anybody else do anything like this? Does it matter?

[Gerry]

To my knowledge, silamide is nylon, which is why it will hold when split.

Possibly re-wax the silk once split?? Though according to this vid, silamide is generally thicker than silk, so probably no need to split it in the first place:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkZ33TC5k_Y

[Dunc]

Tried re-waxing it, didn't seem to help much... I get the feeling the silk needs the counter-twist to keep it together.

The silamide does look quite a bit thicker in that video right enough.

[TSjursen]

There is no need to draw out a single thread from the gutermann r402e. If you want a finer thread why not just use the s303 silk or the Mara 120 polyester, it works well for hand sewing too without waxing.

[Gerry]

For all their talk about sustainability and only using natural products, it's surprising how many savile row tailors put plastic thread into their garments.

I appreciate that it's stronger, I just can't bring myself to use polyester etc.

[Hendrick]

For all their talk about sustainability and only using natural products, it's surprising how many savile row tailors put plastic thread into their garments.

I appreciate that it's stronger, I just can't bring myself to use polyester etc.

I sometimes use a fine mercerised cotton, it won't strap and knot as easily as most threads, I think it is from Coats. But I agree that Mara and Seralon are fine for hand sewing. If you hate knotting and strapping but don't mind using polyester there is a thread called Silky, I believe from Mettler  that is very smooth.



Cheers, Hendrick

[Greger]

I heard of using strands from silk twist. Sometimes, several.
Was taught that thread is expensive. Modern thread making equipment is not like yesterday.
Another reason for the word expensive is save all your pennies for things that are after work (Don't squander your money at work.)

[Dunc]

There is no need to draw out a single thread from the gutermann r402e. If you want a finer thread why not just use the s303 silk or the Mara 120 polyester, it works well for hand sewing too without waxing.

Thanks, that's what I figured - but since I've never made a jacket before, I wasn't sure...

[Gerry]

The s303 is only a tiny bit thicker than Gutermann's 50 wt general cotton, so would work well (good call TS). I mainly use it for bar-tacks, when I don't want anything too obtrusive.