Blazer fitting

[jruley]

My recent coat turned out well enough I thought I might try making a blazer.  Something sort of like this (minus the elbow patches):

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1800082219/men-designer-corduroy-brown-blazer?gpla=1&gao=1&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_-clothing-non_domestic_low&utm_custom1=_k_7e719aa194c717f4e241fd337f580909_k_&utm_content=bing_412372857_1302921576740039_81432662492637_pla-4585032213878094%3Apla-4585032213878094_c__1800082219&utm_custom2=412372857&msclkid=7e719aa194c717f4e241fd337f580909

Material will be a medium weight cotton corduroy.

I know the Viennese seam cut is unconventional, but it has the advantage of putting some shape in without much ironwork.  I think the extra seam in the back might look better than a sewn shoulder dart or a separate back yoke, which would be needed for my prominent blades with a conventional cut.

I started by removing some surplus width from both fronts and backs, then drafted a lapel and collar.  Here is a fresh toile without collar, pinned together at the top button location:

[jruley]

And here unpinned:









Anything to correct before I add the collar?

[jruley]

Here I've added a collar.

Pinned closed:

[jruley]

And unpinned:









I tried to get the collar notches level with the floor by drafting both a left and right collar.  I think the right one might be a little too high on the shoulder.

Any other issues anyone sees?

[jruley]

I lowered the collar notches 1" and cut a new collar.  Here it is pinned closed:









The bubble in the right back shoulder is where a pin is securing the shoulder pad.

[jruley]

Here it is unpinned:









Is there too much fullness in the skirt?  There are some ripples...

[jruley]

Two things to look at today:

1)  I have pinned some surplus width out of the hem at the bottom of the front darts, graduating to nothing at about top of side pocket level.  This seems to have taken the ripples out of the skirt.  This can be turned into a horizontal cut from the dart to the side seam, like a Donlon wedge.

2) I have two slightly different test sleeves.  A "slim fit" draft on the left side, and a slightly wider one on the right side.

Here it is pinned together:

[jruley]

And here unpinned:









Am I getting close to something usable?

[posaune]

Well done!
for me the right sleeve is the better one. I like the cap height and the cap width. What I would alter:  the hem width of the sleeve - I think it is too small in comparison with the elbow width. The left side is hanging a bit and could be rotated at bustpoint. Look at front pic.
lg
posaune 

[jruley]

Thank you posaune.

The left side is only hanging a little, I might have stretched the neckline when I recut it to lower the notches.  So I'm deferring that until fitting the basted up coat.

For the sleeve:  what about reducing the elbow width slightly instead of a wider cuff?

[jruley]

Basting in the canvas gets interrupted:

[jruley]

Basted up for first fitting.  I followed Cabrera's method for canvas construction.  Here it is pinned together at top button location:

[jruley]

And here unpinned:









So far I'm pleased, but if anyone sees something that needs fixed, please let me know.