Yet another jacket fitting thread...

[Dunc]

Hi Peter

I have inlay all around the top of the sleeves, so I can change the cap height using that if that would work better? Or I can scoop out the bottom as you suggest... How much do you think it needs?

I'm not sure I see the stress folds you're referring to though. For example, on the left sleeve, do you mean the slight fold running down from just in front of the top pitch mark towards the elbow?

[peterle]

With stress fold I mean you can see that the whole sleeve hangs just at the front shoulder bone. Thus you can see a taught strip from this point to the hem. Not really a fold, yes.
To determin the right amount, Just open the upper 2/3rds of the armhole seam. You will see how much you have to lower the fabric to make the ripples dissapear.
When you use your top inlays, the sleeves will get longer. As you like it

[Hendrick]

Hi Peter

I have inlay all around the top of the sleeves, so I can change the cap height using that if that would work better? Or I can scoop out the bottom as you suggest... How much do you think it needs?

I'm not sure I see the stress folds you're referring to though. For example, on the left sleeve, do you mean the slight fold running down from just in front of the top pitch mark towards the elbow?

In the industry we call this effect "cording" in a sleeve... In a toile, I will cut the sleeve horizontally about 5 to 7 cm down from the sleeve head. Then cut vertically from that line up and pin and sew a scrap of fabric under that to correct. take out the sleeve and press flat to re-trace the pattern.

Cheers, Hendrick

[Dunc]

Thanks Peter, I think I understand.

[Dunc]

Right, I've altered just the left sleeve to give about 10mm more at the top of the cap. I'd definitely want to take the sleeves out entirely and re-mark the desired line before doing it again properly, but hopefully this is enough to see if I've got the magnitude of the adjustment about right. I think it looks a lot better, but then I'm not really sure what I'm looking for here:

[peterle]

Looks definitely better now but I think it could be a tad more. There are yet some ripples at the back of the sleeve.
Probably you should add a bit more height at the front of the crown, in the area in front of the top sleeve mark. (There is enough crown height vertically where the ripples are)
This will make the front crown line a bit steeper and the highest point of the crown should shift a bit forward. When you look on the profile pic you can see that the highest peak of the crown should lie a bit forward from the shoulder seam.

[Dunc]

Thanks Peter. I think trying to freehand a new line with the sleeve still half sewn in was maybe a bit beyond my current skill level...