Yet another jacket fitting thread...

[Dunc]

Hi Peter

I have inlay all around the top of the sleeves, so I can change the cap height using that if that would work better? Or I can scoop out the bottom as you suggest... How much do you think it needs?

I'm not sure I see the stress folds you're referring to though. For example, on the left sleeve, do you mean the slight fold running down from just in front of the top pitch mark towards the elbow?

[peterle]

With stress fold I mean you can see that the whole sleeve hangs just at the front shoulder bone. Thus you can see a taught strip from this point to the hem. Not really a fold, yes.
To determin the right amount, Just open the upper 2/3rds of the armhole seam. You will see how much you have to lower the fabric to make the ripples dissapear.
When you use your top inlays, the sleeves will get longer. As you like it

[Hendrick]

Hi Peter

I have inlay all around the top of the sleeves, so I can change the cap height using that if that would work better? Or I can scoop out the bottom as you suggest... How much do you think it needs?

I'm not sure I see the stress folds you're referring to though. For example, on the left sleeve, do you mean the slight fold running down from just in front of the top pitch mark towards the elbow?

In the industry we call this effect "cording" in a sleeve... In a toile, I will cut the sleeve horizontally about 5 to 7 cm down from the sleeve head. Then cut vertically from that line up and pin and sew a scrap of fabric under that to correct. take out the sleeve and press flat to re-trace the pattern.

Cheers, Hendrick

[Dunc]

Thanks Peter, I think I understand.