Yet another jacket fitting thread...

[jruley]

As an example:  This is an unstructured cotton seersucker summer coat I made for reenactment use some years ago using DeVere's 1866 system.  Stripes are parallel to the front edge seen from the front:



Now look at the back shoulder seam.  The vertical stripes have become horizontal!

[Greger]

And it depends on the iron work.
This I heard as a child about hand sewn shoulder seams that can be shaped with an iron to fit "that" particular person. A machine seam will not allow this personal shaping. Was reading more details in a book from, perhaps, the 1880s, recently.
Another place to add length is the side seam starting part way up the side seam to the scye for shrinking. This also concern the shoulder blade and muscles in that area.
Like sleeve crown/cap. Shrink in as much as possible. If the muscles need more space the cloth is there which allows it to stretch. If you don't put in that length then it becomes uncomfortable and maybe ripes or tares.
All the extras you put in is to bring the customers back. A nice looking garment that "fits", but not with movement is not worth as much. And some customers notice.

[Dunc]

Definitely making progress I think...

This is with the front shoulder hollowed, and the back shoulder straight. There didn't end up being much fullness to ease in as the extra length of the front shoulder took up most of it.

[Dunc]

Just looking again at the remaining folds... Do I still need a bit more space over my shoulder blades?

[jruley]

Maybe try what peterle suggested?  Let out the middle portion of the shoulder seams and see if they disappear.

I wonder if Reza's techniques were optimized to fit his own shoulders?  Maybe you don't need that much hollowing.

Were you planning on shoulder pads?  It doesn't look like there's much room left.

[Dunc]

The pads are already in.

[peterle]

Well done, the stress folds are removed.
Now we see some width above and below the back waist. The waist itself seems smooth.
I would sew the back seam instead of basting and would iron the SAs apart and I would make sure I ve stretched the center inlays thoroughly in the waist area to prevent any pulling.
Probably the shortness of the inlays don't allow the fabric to relax.
But most probably the back balance is a tad too short now so the waist of the coat can't follow the body.

[Dunc]

Thanks Peter, that's really helpful.

Since it sounds like I don't have any major fittings issues left to deal with here, I think I might move on to the sleeves now and deal with the centre back later. To be honest, I've been getting a little frustrated with this recently, so I think it would be good see a bit more obvious progress.

Thanks again for all your help and patience.

[jruley]

If you need a break you can make muslin sleeves, and at least get a general idea of how they work with your armhole.  But you might have to repeat your work if future body changes affect the armhole.

These little fiddly changes are the most exasperating part of the whole business, but they will all seem worthwhile the day things finally click into place.

Hang in there - you're getting close.

[Dunc]

Yeah, a sleeve muslin was going to be the next step. I don't think we're expecting much change to the armhole now.

[jruley]

Probably not - but if there is another balance change it could affect the sleeve pitch.  I wouldn't cut the cloth sleeves until you are sure the body is right.