Jacket Front-Back Balance

[Schneiderfrei]

Don't forget to keep track of all changes on your paper pattern.

Great reminder Greger.

What I couldnt find, yet above is the section from Lady's Tailoring, that remarks on how surprising it is, that only a very little forward push is necessary to meet the needs of even a considerable hollow back. 0.5mm is a good start.

[jruley]

0.5mm is a good start.

Surely you mean 0.5cm? 

BTW I'm not Greger, nor do I play him on TV.

[Greger]

If you download Modern Tailor vol 1, a tailor and cutter book from the 40s and 50s, towards the end it has some fitting advice. For coats diagram 26 is worth looking at for the back.

Because you don't know how much to change added Inlays gives extra cloth for fitting adjustments. There is a bit about adding inlays in this book, too, several pages up.
The vest fitting part some of this applies to coats.
Lots to ponder.

[Schneiderfrei]

Surely you mean 0.5cm? 

BTW I'm not Greger, nor do I play him on TV.

So it was 5am. You are right on both counts.

 

[Greger]

Coffee pot wasn't working? 

[Schneiderfrei]

Coffee pot wasn't working? 

    

[jruley]

Coffee pot wasn't working? 

It was upside down...

[Hendrick]

Coffee pot wasn't working? 

It was upside down...

Balance problem?

[Pergamon]

Thank you all very much for your help so far, again I'm impressed by your expertise!

As I said in my initial post the goal ist to develop a basic pattern for very casual unconstructed/unlined garments, so no padding, canvasing, etc.
I do want to get the balance right, but I can compromise on clean lines/shape for the sake of practicality and mobility.

It's a little on the baggy side. I take it there's no side panel, but did you include a dart under the arm? Difficult to tell. Suppression can be tinkered with later, however, sorting out the RHS would be the place to start IMO. More experienced eyes will no doubt offer other suggestions.

Indeed there is no separate side panel, but I did include a dart underarm. I took that decision to simplify the pattern as much as possible (fewer seams on the interior to deal with)

I'm guessing that the misaligned balance marks seen in profile are due to the back being shifted up (they're old marks?).

correct.

Sway back in German is Hohlkreutz. It's best tackled in the draft stage, Shifting the back waist point, to the left by 0.5 to 1.0cm. Since this changes the draft radically, it's a difficult correction on the muslin.

I will try this in another muslin and post photos of all sides.

Again, thank you all for the input, I will get back as soon as I worked through your suggestions.

[jruley]

I think the dropped shoulder is a more obvious issue than the sway back.  So why not correct it now, which can be done without cutting a new muslin?  You should be able to use the same correction in the new pattern.

[Pergamon]

I think the dropped shoulder is a more obvious issue than the sway back.  So why not correct it now, which can be done without cutting a new muslin?  You should be able to use the same correction in the new pattern.

I will definitely look at that as well, thank you jruley

[Pergamon]

Following all 4 sides of the muslin, open and closed, with the dropped shoulder adjustment:
1,5cm taken in at the shoulder seam, armscye lowered accordingly

[Gerry]

It's certainly looking better (especially at the back), but the right hand front needs picking up at the neck by a tiny amount. If you look at your lapel on the right, it drops down lower than the one on the left; and the balance lines show that the RHS front is swinging to the side a little.

Also, in profile the balance lines are slightly diagonal when the jacket is unbuttoned. Once the right-left imbalance is sorted, then you should probably pick up both fronts by a tiny amount at the shoulder to correct this. You might have to deepen the arm scyes by a corresponding amount.

[Gerry]

The back seems to have too much length on the left-hand side, going into the shoulder tip. There's a pocket of cloth there and it could do with tightening up. Pin out some of the cloth along the seam, to give you an idea of how to shape it.

There's possibly still a tiny amount of tension at the back on the right hand side, under the arm? Difficult to tell, but it doesn't look too clean. That could just be the calico though, due to lack of drape.