Jacket Front-Back Balance

[Pergamon]

Hello dear cutters and tailors,

my latest project is a casual SB two and half-button jacket (unstructured/unlined/cotton fabric/easy fit), side panel cut on.

Generally I'm quite happy with the fit of the muslin, I would make it a bit longer, change the lapel shape etc, but I think I'm still struggling with the front-back balance: the quarters "swing" forward and overlap, the lower back comes forward and the collar gaps in the back neck. (-> indicating front too short, back too long?) I have quite a rounded back/stooped posture/sloping shoulders.
Can you help what adjustments to try on the pattern?
Many Thanks!

[jruley]

Hello Pergamon,

I'm not very well qualified to comment on fitting, but some of the professionals here have been more than generous helping with my projects.

It would aid them greatly if you indicate the major construction lines on your muslin.  Also, see if you can stand in a consistent posture with a background that has horizontal and vertical lines, such as cabinets or a door frame.  Get someone else to take the photos, and take front, back, and both sides.  Finally, stand relaxed in your normal posture.

Hope this is useful !

[Gerry]

It would have helped to see the back too, but I'd say you don't have enough length on the back; specifically at the neck and shoulders. As a result you have gapping at the back and the fronts are being pulled backwards, in turn causing the front hem to lift off the body. It's best to sort out the balance before making other adjustments.

[Greger]

At the side seams put a mark. On the back put a mark half an inch down. Undo the side seam. Now match the marks and bast the side seams together. Mark your new shoulder line and bast that together. The back armholes are adjusted. And add to the bottom. The actual amount may be different and both sides may vary. You may need more width across the back. Perhaps the front a little narrower by moving the front outwards on the shoulder seam. Without fronts pinned together the front edges should hang parallel.

[peterle]

Profile and Back Pics would be fine.

And pics taken with a stand or by someone else. At the moment it seems you have a low left shoulder.

It also helps to mark the chest and waist line in the toile. This reveals inbalances quite good.

[Gerry]

I don't have someone to take photos so I prop my phone up against my machine on the table and video myself slowly turning 360 degrees, pausing when in profile and when my back is to the phone. I then pause the playback at these points and take snap-shots.

[Pergamon]

Wow, thank you so far for all the helping comments. I will try these and post the results.