Attila/Hussar pattern

Started by Couturier, December 27, 2024, 06:50:57 AM

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Couturier

Hello

I've got an commissions from a Swedish hussar music corps to make them a few Atilla jackets. Does anyone have a pattern for such a jacket? It can be for a historic German/Prussian Attila too, as it's the same style for both countries. Or any other suggesting for a similar draft that can be modified into such a uniform?

Greger

A coat pattern with a good pattern structure will do. Then you draw around it the style lines for the coat you want.
For example, Clarence Poulin wrote a book called Making Suits The Professional Way. I followed his directions for making a the pattern and changed it into a shirt. My measurements were close enough, so I used them. I moved the main sideseam to under the arms like normal shirts. Did a few calculations for waist measure. The front line went straight up (no lapel). Decided how many buttons. Raise or lower the hem the desired height. Made a different kind of collar. The shirt was very comfortable. Roomy inside, even though it looked close fitting. Think I used the coat sleeves that comes with the pattern.
The back piece could be done different. You could change it to a body coat style. The advantage here is the shoulder blade can be adjusted. Some people have large shoulder blades while others may smaller ones. There height varies too. These two parts go to the waistline. The third piece is the skirt. It hangs below the the two upper pieces. The first piece goes down the shoulder sleeve seam about 3-4 inches. Make an arc until 3 inches from the center back, and run it down to the bottom. The second part the arc is a bit sharper and then runs down about 1 3/4 inch away from the other back part and a little below. I assume that you drew the whole Poulin pattern for measurements you can take and tranfer. This piece has some of the armhole and sideseam. Body coats are to sit into the small of the back nicely. Anyway, the third part is the skirt. It has some curved sides, top and bottom. These three parts are basted together, attached to the front at shoulder and side- badted. Before cutting, chalk inlays for fitting adjustments.
The braid work, there is a name for it, perhaps frog. It is created in your hand and layed on the coat and stitched. Some of these coats are duffle. Forgot if those are called buttons. Think they are called toggles. Don't over do the frog work. Some have a silly amount. The collar is mandarin or something similar.
Belive I've seen pictures of these coats- Swedish Military coats.
The military can be fancy in any country.

jruley

One thing your musicians will appreciate is free arm movement.

I made this jacket for a friend who performs music from the American Civil War:





I used a period pattern drafting system (DeVere's 1866 Centre Point System) which has a close fitting armscye and ease in the sleeve crown.  He also needed some extra width in the back to be comfortable playing the guitar and banjo.