serging

[Hendrick]

I just went over some trials I did this week. And a question came to my mind; why is everybody using these wide (broad) 4 thread overlockers that to me have a "stiffening"effect on seams. In "olden days" these things were only used for constructing jersey garments but not for overcasting single layers of wovens; three threaders were the norm because they leave movement to the seams. On top of that on finer work seam widths were often at 7mm or a quarter inch, but these machines cover that width almost entirely. Whenever I cut something woven (at a price that makes me think at least twice) I always fall back on a trusted old 3 thread babylocker (basically a "japanised" Singer 81k) that forms a beautiful 1/8 inch stitch and is far easier to use because of the small presser foot whereas the 4 threaders have a presser foot the size of a small skate board...

Anyone; warm welcome to let me know your take on finishing seam edges.

Cheers, Hendrick

[Gerry]

I totally agree, it's overkill. Four threads are necessary for securing seams when joining jersey etc; but for merely finishing a raw edge that's sewn (or going to be)? Three-thread is all that's necessary IMO.

This year I've acquired a small collection of original, Italian-collar shirts, so that I can copy their collars. All have sewn-on front-facings with exposed edges that are merely overlocked. All of the overlocking is really skinny, as you describe. It's held strong for around 75 years and not one shirt has four-thread overlocking.

[TTailor]

Agree!

Four threads are just too much for plain finishing of seams!
I have a very old singer industrial three thread that makes a beautiful serged finish.
Four threads are for stretch because three is not secure enough there.