Jacket grainline

[Hendrick]

Thank you!

[Greger]

Hendrick,
Some patterns the waistline moves up as it moves back. Need to be aware of that, too.
What's your opinion about the question you asked?

[Schneiderfrei]

Hofenbitzer has a very adaptive view of waistlines. He is drafting for females, but its completely likely men have similar variations.

[Hendrick]

Hendrick,
Some patterns the waistline moves up as it moves back. Need to be aware of that, too.
What's your opinion about the question you asked?

I was actually fishing for your opinion... But in fact, I was trying to immagine the slanted center back on a strong yarn dyed fabric and concluding that a heavy chevron effect would occur. Maybe fine (but still disturbing) with a fine bankers'stripe but not with a chalk stripe or, worse, a check where you would obviously center the window of the check. That was what started my post. I have no experience in bespoke but I have seen cutters (like my dad) balancing and adjusting pattern parts to a design while striking. I was curious to hear the reaction of an experienced person. Your remark about the waistline is bang on and in womens' pattern making is a devil. When a coat swings out, the waistline is like a pendulum hung by the atlas point of the neck; with more volume the waist will go up more than you expect every time. Then, going back to front you find that the volume compensates for the chestwidth; balance gone! And that is, without the bulk and weight of the fabric...

Cheers, Hendrick

[Greger]

You mention the waist going up. Lots of variables there. Larger breast. Where the bulk of the stomach is at. How much from the top do you add, or the bottom. The curved lines are longer than the straight ones. The more round the longer. Includes horizontal. And what do you want to do with the armhole? If it fits- change everything else that needs to be changed. Or, maybe your brain is thinking different. And of course aligning the vertical stripes. One pin per panel at shoulder makes it easy to move each panel rather quickly. Then decide how you want the darts and fish. How much of the don lon wedge. I think of tailoring as art on the person instead of the pattern says it is right. Hostek was telling me about one customer who wanted a coat with a name. But different regions might have a different coat with that name. Hostek said when the customer had it on for first fitting, "That's not what I want". Maybe he forgot, or it looked terrible on him, or just changed his mind. The tailor had the inlays so they could design the coat on the customer. About chest and stomach shapes hunchbacks are similar. Reading an old tailor and cutting book about stripes either direction keep the back rather straight. Under the arms put the deep curves and for the hips put the curves on the front piece or side panel. Granddad said under the arms is quite hidden. Watching an Italian tailor (no side panel) he added a lot of curve on the front side for the hip and seat. You kind of described women as 4 dimensional and men as 3. I agree. Your dad certainly wanted a higher standard. That's the kind of tailor to go to.  One complaint about women,  is that,  they are more fickle.

[Hendrick]

"One complaint about women,  is that,  they are more fickle."

Thanks for reminding me...

[Hendrick]

Hofenbitzer has a very adaptive view of waistlines. He is drafting for females, but its completely likely men have similar variations.

I noticed that... But then women's bodies have completely changed over two generations. I remember patterns with a waist to hip ratio of 74 to a 100 cm (26 cm drop) as normal, whereas these days 80 to 100 is more realistic. In menswear lots of cuts barely have any ease and are worn skintight, in a way that calls for maybe a slightly "feminised" pattern setup?

Cheers, Hendrick

[Greger]

I remember men's styles would last 5-9 years. The skinny style last for 20-25 years is totally completely ridiculous.

[Schneiderfrei]

In menswear lots of cuts barely have any ease and are worn skintight, in a way that calls for maybe a slightly "feminised" pattern setup?

I have wondered about that. In the old forum, there were several discussions about the resistance to the appearance of darts in men's wear, as opposed to the improvements in cuts that darts would give. I reckon DZ made contibutions to such discussion.

[Hendrick]

In menswear lots of cuts barely have any ease and are worn skintight, in a way that calls for maybe a slightly "feminised" pattern setup?

I have wondered about that. In the old forum, there were several discussions about the resistance to the appearance of darts in men's wear, as opposed to the improvements in cuts that darts would give. I reckon DZ made contibutions to such discussion.

I suppose darts and chest hair go together? Remember Jason King?

[Schneiderfrei]

I never saw him on Australian TV. But Ahh! The tiny shoulders. You would have to do something with that!

 

[Gerry]

Speaking of Jason King, erm ...

[stoo23]

Love Harry Enfield