suggestion about construction of a trouser of bielastic Jersey

[posaune]

I will sew a trouser from a bielastic viscose elasthan jersey (on the heavy side). I measured a stretch factor 50 % in the width and 20 % in length of the fabric. The trouser should not be tight just showing figure. I thought about taking for construction away 10 % in width and 5% in length.  Hip = 100 cm will be than 90 cm and
length 110 cm= 104,5 cm.
Can it work?
lg
posaune

[Hendrick]

Oww, ten percent sounds like a lot to me. I think your jersey is in fact an interlock construction, meaning it is a double jersey. These are usually around 400 grs per running metre and often called "punto milano" (which they are not, different story). The amount of stretch and -more important- the resistance of your fabric are not to the same effect of your fit! So note that your trouser will actually shorten when it is stretched. In fact, more length should be added the more you exploit the stretch effect of your fabric. This is especially true for the back seatlength! In my experience with these fabrics I usually ended up with a difference in size of the final pattern of somewhere between a size (4cms) and a size-and-a-half. I usually use a knitted fuseable interlining with stretch for the waistband that "halfway" fixates it. So if the pant has 6cm less with, the waistband would be 3 cms less. Finally, I learned that it is near impossible to "downgrade" a pattern for woven fabrics to knitted fabrics in a linear manner. The secret is in "shaving off" volume and roundness where you want your pant to mold. Further, because knits stretch so much and even more to the bias the seat diameter should be less wide. Think of it as an upside down sinus shape, becoming sharper. All of the above will result in a straighter and more high waisted looking trouser, without ending up in "legging town".

Cheers and happy sewing, Henk

ps, if you whant to use an overlocker to finish it be sure to use the differential!

[Hendrick]

I will sew a trouser from a bielastic viscose elasthan jersey (on the heavy side). I measured a stretch factor 50 % in the width and 20 % in length of the fabric. The trouser should not be tight just showing figure. I thought about taking for construction away 10 % in width and 5% in length.  Hip = 100 cm will be than 90 cm and
length 110 cm= 104,5 cm.
Can it work?
lg
posaune

Hello Posaune, how dit it go?

Cheers, Hendrick

[posaune]

it went. I could have shortened the upper part of the trouser a bit more. I think the weight of the fabric was a factor I neglected. The trouser stretched at crotch length while wearing a bit. To sew a stabalizing band with crotch seam may have been an idea - but what about side seam length?
lg
posaune

[Hendrick]

Hello Posaune, already a good thing that you are wearing them! I never tried fixating a crotch seam on jersey pants bescause technically you would the have to do the same for the sideseam and that would leave endless variables as you know better than I. I once tricked (at least with knitted trousers) by guiding a silicone elastic band ( like  used in swimwear) in coverlocked seams and ir presented not to bad at the time. Int the end compensating in the pattern is always better.

Thanks for your comment,

Cheers, Hendrick