More Casual Jacket Fun

Started by jruley, November 20, 2024, 12:13:30 PM

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Hendrick

Quote from: posaune on December 19, 2024, 03:58:17 AMOh, yes, I think it is about time to do this. Sorry for picking nitbits.
lg
posaune
;) in the moment I sew for a customer who has just this problem. so maybe I look for it everywhere.The left neckhole (in her case) is sliding down at the neck, the shoulder and armpit is lowered and the left hip is standig out. The spine must be bended sideways like  ">"  Difficult.

I am a skolyosis type; I just adjust my shoulder paddings to "normal"...

There is an old joke about this amongst New York tailors.

A guy goes to a tailor to have a suit made. Measuremets are taken and about two weeks later he has his first fitting. the suit looks horrible but the tailor tells him to raise his left shoulder a little, put his feet wider apart and his right foot a bit forward. Two weeks later next fitting and things are no better. In desperation the client orders the suit. When he picks up his suit the tailor offers him a steep discount on the condition that he wears it immediatly and tels anybody who asks where he had it made. He steps out to the bus stop where two ladies are waiting for the bus. He is standing like the tailor told him to and one of the ladies goes "look at that poor guy", the other answers "yes but some genius tailor managed to cut a suit for him, nevertheless"

Cheers, Hendrick

peterle

Here is a "short overcoat" pattern.
It's length is half the body height and you can see the position and size of the muff pockets. This one is double breasted.



jruley

#107
Thank you.  So a bit higher than I was thinking.  Looking at different patterns, it seems the shorter the coat the higher the pocket.  Is there a formula or aesthetic principle for this?

Is there any reason putting them in the darts wouldn't work?

Greger

You can put them in the darts. A hefty bar stitch at the top of pocket. Or one of those fancy triangle stitches. Some of my dad's WWII Naval coats had those fancy triangle stitches at the ends of the pockets.