Leg figuration and pleats

[Hendrick]

My thumbrules; For any trousers with some drape I tilt the upper center frontline (fly) 1 cm to the side, for women's trousers the hip-curve minimum 1,5 cm, remember the upper foldline of the deepest pleat = the grainline. Keep the sideseams as straight as possible and pin-out excess out of the upper inleg of the frontpart during fitting (with a sturdily fixed waist!). Remkember that hip curvature in the front part also ads length and makes for more difficult pocket work. For bigger sizes I sometimes tilt the sideseam an extra cm towards the front; it is (for me) imperative that the sideseam be frontally visible, especially for ladies'trousers. Plus, the larger backpart will better camouflage the behind...


Cheerio, Hendrick