Shirt *Construction* techniques

[Chanterelle]

Do people use rotary cutters to cut out the smaller elements, like collars, cuffs, collar stands, plackets? For precision that is? And do you tend to use fabric pens or just a really sharp chalk?

Bespoke shirtmakers often use specialist knives (38:40 mark):

could actually see some knives used for leather work being handy for the smaller bits, like: https://www.etsy.com/market/rocker_knife

[Chanterelle]

Just my 2 cents.

This I get...but the thought is that, especially with the smaller bits, a rotary cutter may be more precise because it does not lift the cloth like sheers do...but that depends on the skill of the user, i guess

[Chanterelle]

Have you looked at Mike Maldonado's classes?

The websites linked from his YouTube and Insta profiles all seem to be gone, and I haven't seen any activity from him in a couple of years. Even back when I bought his course (which is a good few years ago now) the website was like something out of the ark... It's a shame, his course was by far the best and most comprehensive material on shirtmaking I ever managed to find.

As I mentioned somewhere in this thread, when I bought a couple of his courses everything was sent via drop-box. I only had a free account, which had a size limit to its inbox IIR. Something like that, anyway. It just meant that I didn't get all the files and after a lot of email correspondence, he had to send them one at a time. Which was a pain for both of us.

Ethical grey area but if he's not offering these courses anymore/cannot be purchased anymore, would you mind sharing the videos?

That said, I'm considering Bespoke Educator's course on shirt making https://www.youtube.com/@BESPOKEEDUCATOR

[Gerry]

Ethical grey area but if he's not offering these courses anymore/cannot be purchased anymore, would you mind sharing the videos?

I really wouldn't feel comfortable doing that, sorry. It's his intellectual property to do with as he pleases. For all we know he's revamping his website, or rerecording his vids with the intention of selling them. We can't automatically assume that he's retired or has bit the dust.

I didn't buy all of the modules. Much of the content in the ones I did purchase is covered in his free vids on youtube (the two channels that I linked to at the start of this thread). Which was a little annoying, but there were bits and pieces of interest.

I wasn't tempted by the drafting module. I don't remember the exact details, but he did something in an excerpt that just didn't make sense and clearly would lead to a certain problem ... then there was an excerpt for what to do if you encounter said problem. We all have our blind spots, admittedly, but I saved my money.

I really like Bespoke Educator's channel. If you do sign up with him, please give an overview of what is covered.

[Gerry]

could actually see some knives used for leather work being handy for the smaller bits, like: https://www.etsy.com/market/rocker_knife

Unfortunately your link doesn't appear to work, Chanterelle. However, I just checked leatherwork knives on etsy and yes, many look as if they would do the job. Hadn't occurred to me, thanks. My only concern is, are they sharp enough? Again, if you pull the trigger on any, do let us know how they perform.

Edit: Also, quite a lot of the knives look too 'vertical', compared to the one James MacAuslan shows. I wonder who sources these knives? This vid shows the knife in action, BTW:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdeA_bPO05U

[jruley]

This I get...but the thought is that, especially with the smaller bits, a rotary cutter may be more precise because it does not lift the cloth like sheers do...but that depends on the skill of the user, i guess

What I do when cutting multiple layers is put in a few pins.  Well away from the edges so they won't interfere with the shears (or rotary cutter).  Really cuts down on the shifting especially with lightweight or slick material.

[Hendrick]

could actually see some knives used for leather work being handy for the smaller bits, like: https://www.etsy.com/market/rocker_knife

Unfortunately your link doesn't appear to work, Chanterelle. However, I just checked leatherwork knives on etsy and yes, many look as if they would do the job. Hadn't occurred to me, thanks. My only concern is, are they sharp enough? Again, if you pull the trigger on any, do let us know how they perform.

Edit: Also, quite a lot of the knives look too 'vertical', compared to the one James MacAuslan shows. I wonder who sources these knives? This vid shows the knife in action, BTW:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdeA_bPO05U

I reccomend Xacto or Westcott pen knives, they have various cutting blades. I specifically like the rounded ones that I have used a lot for fine leathers and felts but also for boiled wool fabrics that are used "raw edge". Westcott used to also make a ruler with "anti slip" backing that prevents whatever you are cutting from gliding.

Cheers, Hendrick

[Gerry]

I reccomend Xacto or Westcott pen knives, they have various cutting blades. I specifically like the rounded ones that I have used a lot for fine leathers and felts but also for boiled wool fabrics that are used "raw edge". Westcott used to also make a ruler with "anti slip" backing that prevents whatever you are cutting from gliding.

Cheers, Hendrick

I already own one of those xacto scalpels. I was sort of put off using using it for cloth by the caffeinated Tailor. He posted a short on his channel not so long ago that showed him struggling to cut multiple layers of shirting with a scalpel. It didn't go well, which is probably why the video appears to have been removed! 😀 Like any tool, I'm sure there's a knack to using these. I'd still prefer to have one of those full-size blades though.

[Gerry]

Angled trim knives are perhaps usable?

https://www.leatherhouse.eu/products/96-knife-blades-amp-scissors/22851-french-angled-trim-knife/

[Chanterelle]

Ethical grey area but if he's not offering these courses anymore/cannot be purchased anymore, would you mind sharing the videos?

I really wouldn't feel comfortable doing that, sorry. It's his intellectual property to do with as he pleases. For all we know he's revamping his website, or rerecording his vids with the intention of selling them. We can't automatically assume that he's retired or has bit the dust.

I didn't buy all of the modules. Much of the content in the ones I did purchase is covered in his free vids on youtube (the two channels that I linked to at the start of this thread). Which was a little annoying, but there were bits and pieces of interest.

I wasn't tempted by the drafting module. I don't remember the exact details, but he did something in an excerpt that just didn't make sense and clearly would lead to a certain problem ... then there was an excerpt for what to do if you encounter said problem. We all have our blind spots, admittedly, but I saved my money.

I really like Bespoke Educator's channel. If you do sign up with him, please give an overview of what is covered.

Totally understandable. Will definitely report back, maybe with a screen grab of what's covered in the course...it's all inclusive he says and covers everything involved--drafting to all the find details of making up.

Did chat with him briefly over email...I told him about the forum, so hope he decides to join us here.

[Chanterelle]

could actually see some knives used for leather work being handy for the smaller bits, like: https://www.etsy.com/market/rocker_knife

Unfortunately your link doesn't appear to work, Chanterelle. However, I just checked leatherwork knives on etsy and yes, many look as if they would do the job. Hadn't occurred to me, thanks. My only concern is, are they sharp enough? Again, if you pull the trigger on any, do let us know how they perform.

Edit: Also, quite a lot of the knives look too 'vertical', compared to the one James MacAuslan shows. I wonder who sources these knives? This vid shows the knife in action, BTW:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdeA_bPO05U

The knives have a curved blade like pictured which seems vastly superior for doing curves than the straight blade MacAuslan is using in that vid. The curved blade would allow you to 'rock' around the curves and help with straighter lines with less possibility for those choppy edges. The problem I foresee is that without a cutting template, the curves of a collar stand might end up uneven, unless the fabric is cut on the half. I don't *like* cutting on the half for stands and
collars but maybe I should do...maybe when I've been doing this for forty years I'll finally have a good methodology down lol.

I have a few leather working knives and they can be razor sharp if you get a decent one.

For rotary cutters, I use Olfa blades, which are very sharp. Worth the price imo. Still, with the pressure you need to apply, the trouble is getting a smooth, accurate curve.

Maybe the best method is to pin and cut

This I get...but the thought is that, especially with the smaller bits, a rotary cutter may be more precise because it does not lift the cloth like sheers do...but that depends on the skill of the user, i guess

What I do when cutting multiple layers is put in a few pins.  Well away from the edges so they won't interfere with the shears (or rotary cutter).  Really cuts down on the shifting especially with lightweight or slick material.

[Greger]

Angled trim knives are perhaps usable?

https://www.leatherhouse.eu/products/96-knife-blades-amp-scissors/22851-french-angled-trim-knife/

They have linen thread.
https://www.leatherhouse.eu/products/98-sewing-thread/3454-waxed-linen-thread----leatherhouse/
Grandad used linen thread for sewing on coat buttons. The thread they have might be good for this.

[Gerry]

They have linen thread.
https://www.leatherhouse.eu/products/98-sewing-thread/3454-waxed-linen-thread----leatherhouse/
Grandad used linen thread for sewing on coat buttons. The thread they have might be good for this.

Gutermann do a waxed linen thread, but the colour range is really limited (unlike the above firm). Very wiry stuff. I repaired the strap of a leather bag with it and the repair has held, so pretty strong.