Turnback / gauntlet cuffs

[Justin]

Hi all,

Does anyone have any resources on making turnback/gauntlet cuffs on a jacket? Or perhaps have one with turnback cuffs they would be willing to take some pictures of? I've not found any descriptions or seen them up close so I'm a bit unsure.

With a regular jacket cuff, the hem gets turned to the wrong side and is later covered by the lining. My understanding is that the turnback or gauntlet is attached to the end of the sleeve as a separate piece, and not actually "turned back". I'm also wondering about the construction of the working cuff in such an arrangement.

Thanks very much!

[Gerry]

Coincidentally, I was watching this last night.

They're sewn on in order to have the right side of the cloth showing once turned back. I'm guessing they're constructed like a shirt cuff, only shorter and possibly closed by hand on the wrong side? Never made them, but eagerly await responses.

Although I like the look, doubling up with a cocktail cuff shirt is too much IMO.

[Gerry]

https://www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk/thenotebook/silk-turnback-cuff/

This is a little more detailed:

https://www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk/thenotebook/turn-back-cuffs/

[Gerry]

I'm posting these links for my own benefit as much as everyone else's. Between them, we should end up with all the pieces of the jigsaw.

From Des Merrion (top-notch tailor):

I made the turnback round at the back, near the buttons, it was just shy of the bottom cuff button, so it would have been around 1,1/4"-1,1/2" in depth

https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/posts/454493/

Its quite easy. You make the cuff separate and line it with thin silesia or lining and attach it to the sleeve when only the forearm seam is sewn together, turn it back and tack it place, giving plenty of length over the actual sleeve length.

https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/posts/454500/

[Gerry]

https://charlieallen.co.uk/blogs/news/turn-back-cuffs

[Gerry]

It took me a while to figure out how these cuffs are actually secured, but I think I've got it now.

The cuff is finished like that of a shirt. The show-side of the cloth receives the clean-finished edge (seam-edge tucked into the opening), whereas the lining is left poking out, its sides folding inwards due to the bagging out.

The cuff is placed lining-side down against the right side of the sleeve, hemlines/seamlines aligned. Only the foreparts of the sleeve are sewn at this stage to make the sewing-on of the cuff easier. The cuff is basted in place then stitched on, with only its lining securing it to the sleeve.

The lining is then separated from the hem of the sleeve and pushed into the cuff opening, no different than with a shirt cuff. The sleeve hem remains outside of the cuff's opening, which is then felled by hand to close.

Finally, the sleeve hem is folded inwards and completed as normal.

Would someone confirm this please?

Also, what sort of interfacing is appropriate for the cuff (if any?).

[Justin]

Thank you for the replies!

I just found this forum post which shows a picture of the inside of the sleeve of some gauntlet cuffs - the first set of pics of the green jacket shows a seam just inside the end of the sleeve https://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f101/gauntlet-argyll-cuff-96289/

That's how you've described attaching them right? Where you fell the gauntlet to the hem of the finished sleeve? I think it makes sense to me now. I guess I gotta go practice one and report back...

[Gerry]

Thank you for the replies!

I just found this forum post which shows a picture of the inside of the sleeve of some gauntlet cuffs - the first set of pics of the green jacket shows a seam just inside the end of the sleeve https://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f101/gauntlet-argyll-cuff-96289/

That's how you've described attaching them right? Where you fell the gauntlet to the hem of the finished sleeve? I think it makes sense to me now. I guess I gotta go practice one and report back...

Well done for finding this, Justin! Yes, that first jacket seems to confirm what I outlined. By the look of things, when the lining is eventually tucked in to the cuff, the opening is pulled over the seam slightly. That way, when closing the cuff the cloth proper is felled directly to the hem of the sleeve (making the seam more secure). It also obscures the lining from view.

I think with those other coats, there's a seam higher up the sleeve. We don't see it because the turn-backs are quite wide and cover it, as does the lining (it's taken past the seam?). That has to be the case, because the right-side of the cloth shows on the outside (if I'm not mistaken). Not that I care, it's more of an overcoat/heavy jacket thing by the look of things.

The detail about the bar tacks is useful (I was wondering how the cuffs are held in place). When I was researching the above, I found in another forum an illustration of a cuff which was buttoned to keep it in place. The design was really cool, if a little old fashioned. I wish I'd downloaded it now.

If you've ever made shirt cuffs, this shouldn't be difficult. Please post your findings.

[Gerry]

I managed to retrace my steps. You can just about make out that these cuffs are buttoned:

https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/posts/633616/