Pitch of the sleeve

Started by posaune, February 22, 2024, 03:50:07 AM

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I think not the gaining of tailoring is the reason, I think it is the lack of tailoring knowledge nowadays. Very much of knowledge vanished when the trade nearly died. If you are interested in a thoroughly knowledge you buy the old books.
But the old masters worked with other materials as we have today. So adaption is required.

In my youth we had a lady coming to our home once or twice for some days in the year to sew seasons clothing for us children and our mother. She was wonderful - good Patternmaker, perfect sewer and good fitter. And a good story teller. My father went to a tailor. Our village had 3 ladies and 1 tailor for men.


That is a nice write up about the better days of crafts people, Posaune. Mass-produced is so limited. Custom made has so many opportunities and better fit. Old paintings don't show any garments quite the same. The same style or fashion, but every garment is a different variation. Even old photos can show the same style or fashion, but everyone of them different. Each can be unique. Furniture, custom is so nice. The assembly line doesn't exist. Each part beautifully made. And made to last, becoming an antique.
Mass-production couldn't possibly do this, and the photos show it. 
As a small boy mom was making a blouse. I was looking at the sleeve pattern, it was store bought, mom said that a tailors pattern is plain and simple. Details are added on the cloth. Style and fashion details are added to the cloth. Extentions are not part of the pattern, because there are different reasons to do it different. Like adding cuffs, gauntlets, etc. The top of the sleeve can be made to go over the shoulder different places to an extended shoulder and the sleeve dropping down from there. I was asking her about thinking with words or pictures. Words are most used for communicating to people. Picture thinking is very good for designing, navigation, etc. (no words necessary). Mass-production doesn't do this individually.
I love seeing custom clothes.  The customer and tailors imagination, instead of Mass-produced sameness.
Mass-produced is prison.
Custom is freedom!

Der Zuschneider

Quote from: posaune on March 21, 2024, 04:11:00 PMI am very shocked about the price, Graham. I got mine for 30 € I think. But it must be a later edition. I will have a look, when I am home.
Lg posaune

And looking at the adds -  mine Is post war  - no nazi uniforms so 50 er years is correct.

I am selling a lot of high sought tailor books for tripple prices now and they sell slowly now. But when I posted them here for cheap, you despised them. It doesn't pay out to be cheap and stingy today.

You can find my books in eBay and I have raised prices again and will continue to rise the price with the inflation.

I just remembered the Book "Das moderne Schneidergewerbe", 1920, von C.H. Budde. It is the first value of the three editions. The 2nd and 3rd edition were from Willi Leibold.

Very scarce book. The problem is one is in original covers and the other one, someone has rebound in the 70thies maybe. So it is not looking like the vintage one and I can sell it cheaper. The original, I won't sell, since it belongs to my vast Tailor book collection. The rebound one still has all the original pages inside looking pretty good, better than my original. Someone must has used the book a lot and later rebinded. The book's content ist the same like the ones of Willi Leibold.

Tailoring is an expensive trade now. 2010 I bought a vast majority of books all over the internet, when you were counting the pennies, I spend them so nicely. Today, all those resources are gone.
Tailoring is the love of doing art at OCD level.


Thank you very much for your reply, Posaune!
I am also shocked about the price, 150,- € are way too much for me.
Fractur font wouldn't be a problem.
During my educution I learned patterndrafting following the system of Müller und Sohn.
I want to further enhance my fitting skills now.


Quote from: insa-ana on March 27, 2024, 01:25:28 AMThank you very much for your reply, Posaune!
I am also shocked about the price, 150,- € are way too much for me.

insa-ana keep your eye on www.booklooker.de, www.abebooks.com, or www.zvab.com

I think they are all owned by amazon now, but they seem to retain their original intentions, and unlike amazon they ship internationally.  booklooker may not always ship international though.
Schneider sind auch Leute


Thank you, Schneiderfrei!
These three links are the ones I most frequently use for research.
Medimops ends up to be my most favourite resource, but they rarely have such historical items.
As I live in Austria, shipment from Germany is usually no problem.