Recommended Draft or Book for Trousers

Started by Bifurcator, February 20, 2024, 03:54:33 AM

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Bifurcator

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on February 22, 2024, 12:00:59 PMFull disclosure - I did not refer to any images of yourself at all.

 :D

Quote from: posaune on February 22, 2024, 08:22:33 PMA corpulent draft is used when your belly point sits before the bust point. With a sway back you press your belly into front. (To see if it is necessary Pictures of Sideview from whole body standing besides a doorframe are helpful). So the front pattern must have more room (like a corpulent draft).
Lg
Posaune

Yes, I actually need to do this for my own knowled too so I can better understand my posture and imbalances. I've just realized I have one hip higher than the other.  I noticed my left leg grainline angling to the outside of my foot and no matter what I did I couldn't fix it.  I believe it's because of this high hip.

I don't have a corpulent figure, but as you pointed my belly pushes to the front I think due to a sway back.  It's kind of a reversed "S" shape.  I do prefer to wear my pants a little lower at the front and slightly higher at the back.

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on February 22, 2024, 11:59:12 PMIn case I have not rendered the table above completely correctly, here is the original image:




And here is where it sits in the draft.





thank you!

Once I get some drafts going I will come back to post my results.

Steelmillal

Quote from: DrLang on February 22, 2024, 10:48:58 AMWeight isn't really a problem in my situation.
book way cheaper than a yoga instructor in the long term :) His falling off cliff story worth price of admission. some very advanced postures farther into the book. Weight loss comes with practice/territory. Messes up jackets fits I wear every time I do it for a while, but I go up in size v. down.

Greger

Poulin's book has at the very end of the trousers chapter a little bit about fitting.

EvanTA

Chiming in as a fellow novice. I got the McCunn book but did not find it all that helpful. I couldn't get much out of the book when it came time to try on the muslin and make adjustments based on what I was seeing. Perhaps I'll revisit the book in the future and things will click, but not yet.

My growing sense is having a starting pattern is one thing, but then understanding how to make the modifications is another. Ideally your starting pattern gets you very close, but let's assume it doesn't, do you know how to get it the rest of the way through modifications. I haven't found a single resource that appears to cover it, for pants at least, comprehensively so I just collect bits from multiple resources. The Alteration of Men's Clothing book by David Carlin has some good advice (recommended to me on this forum), and there's lots to be found in these books in their sections on alterations: https://www.cuttersguide.com/galleries/pattern-guides-male/ (again recommended to me on this forum).

Plus, I was just fortunate enough to be able to find someone locally who can teach me this stuff in person, that has been very helpful. She emphasizes the importance of clean lines and curves, being very deliberate about your measurements, effectively transferring modifications to your muslin back to your pattern, lots of record keeping of what you've done and why, etc. I have found it's very easy for seemingly small problems or mistakes to compound, so this emphasis on tightening up my work has certainly helped me early on, setting aside the actual approach or methodology I may be following.


Bifurcator

Thanks for the tips and feedback.
I did try Mccunn's draft as well and it came out kind of odd shaped. I did find his instructions clear and simple, but if felt maybe a little too simplistic.

These are all the drafts I tried:
Aldrich (2 fits)
Hofenbitzer
Jungclaus
Mccun
Mitchell System
MTOC
Muller (2 sizes)
Paulin
Rundschau
Thorton

The Muller one got me pretty close, I think.  The instructions are a little confusing at points as it's translated and not always edited well.  I had to add 1 3/4" to the rise height, because I think their draft accounts for a waistband, but I'm not quite sure. As is the rise would have been way too short.  Unless you want a slim fit don't bother with their Trouser specific book, I was pretty disappointed with it.
The Aldrich draft was actually decent. The Rundschau (found on this forum) was promising, but I think I started with measurements that were too small, so hard to tell.

To your point though it's fairly straightforward to follow instructions on plotting points and connecting the dots.  The hard part is figuring out how to manipulate the pattern to fit how you want.  Like you, I've struggled to find a good resource for pattern correction directions.  I think Carlin's book is good to get an idea of what could be wrong with the pattern, but it's also coming from an alterations POV, so it seems a little limited

This book has ALOT of information on fitting, but I haven't found it particularly helpful: https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/fitting-and-pattern-alteration-a-multi-method-approach-to-the-art-of-style-selection-fitting-and-alteration_judith-rasband_elizabeth-liechty/38363404/item/55841509/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pmax_new_books&utm_adgroup=&utm_term=&utm_content=&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImpPe_OjPhQMVgEpHAR0PqgJuEAQYASABEgJ0IvD_BwE#idiq=55841509&edition=66303719

This book has a few pages that seem promising, but I got a little lost in the descriptions. It's also coming from an alterations POV:
https://www.cuttersguide.com/pdf/Pattern-Guides-Male/practical-instruction-how-to-alter-ill-fitting-garments.pdf

I also found a book called "Cutter's Practical Guide to Fit" by Thickett that has a few promising pages.  I think you can find it on archive.org

I'm horrible at record keeping and also tend to make multiple changes at once.  Both things I need to work on getting better at. Thanks for the tips!

Schneiderfrei

Hi Bifurcator,

I'm not sure what your experience is, so I'm just going to say: The purpose of the draft is certainly ot to get a perfect fit. It is simply a way of getting as close as possible in order to waste as little as possible cloth and time.

Custom computer software may be better, but paper drafts will always need final on-body fitting. So they require a toile or muslin or model, depending on your language. All fitting alterations are recorded on the draft.

THEN a cutting pattern is made from the draft + alterations, that is of sturdier/heavier card, and it includes all seams and inlays and allowances for a specific garment. In that way the pattern yeilds pieces of stuff that are ready for sewing up.

If you record your or a client's variations from the proportional draft, it is then very easy to draw them into a new draft/pattern, they don't change much, and variations due to weight gain/loss are limited to horizontal measurements, generally. 

I think for a bodice, a waistcoat is a perfect garment to discover a true fit. because the draft is itself drawn to very close dimensions.
Schneider sind auch Leute

Bifurcator

Thank you for this overview.  It makes sense.  I'm fairly familiar with manufacturing, but less so the tailoring and bespoke process'.  Appreciate it👍