Canvas construction - Shanghai method 1986

Started by OlymposPartizanos, February 16, 2024, 08:06:47 PM

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OlymposPartizanos


OlymposPartizanos

Translated Version:
Since the picture had already told most of the things (and text contains bunch of useless numbers of Chinese inch), I just translated the most important details.



Main canvas refered as "waxed canvas" here, which I have no idea what it is at all. I've heard from old Shanghainese tailor saying that can't be found nowaday. Only source I can find about it is saying that it is a linen and cotton blend stiff canvas that is waxed. Since here refers lapel canvas using "hair canvas" which is lighter weight", I believe nowaday just using different weight canvas for this two parts.




Here it doesn't use domette or wadding to cover the haircloth at all, just using muslin to cover four sides of it.



Instead of padding the canvas by hand or with special padding machine, Here just using normal straight stich to pad the whole canvas. Actually I don't know how much difference would be between them, but I have 3 jackets from my local tailor in Guangzhou which looks fine. Seems to be a wide range used method at that  time in China.
What would be the finished canvas looks like in this method, from another Shanghainese tailor:



A similar one from Robert Jeffery's blog:
https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/a-look-under-the-hood-mystery-suit/

Actually I've found some more interesting things in this book after reading through this post, which is using a similar method... Maybe write another post about it some day.