Spanish Teba

Started by tmakos, February 11, 2024, 03:50:07 AM

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tmakos

Hello,

I hope someone is familiar with the classic Spanish Teba jacket and can help me out. I really like this style and would like to make one for myself, but I'm a bit unsure about creating the pattern. From what I've seen on Instagram, it looks very similar to drafting a blazer, with the collar being the main difference. If anyone is familiar with it, please confirm or correct me on this.

I noticed that many creators, such as Lopez Arragon, make it completely unstructured. If that's the case, is it advisable to reinforce the breakline with tape, similar to how it's done with blazers?

Thank you!






SO_tailor

Quote from: tmakos on February 11, 2024, 03:50:07 AMI hope someone is familiar with the classic Spanish Teba jacket and can help me out. I really like this style and would like to make one for myself, but I'm a bit unsure about creating the pattern. From what I've seen on Instagram, it looks very similar to drafting a blazer, with the collar being the main difference. If anyone is familiar with it, please confirm or correct me on this.

Don't know anything about "making-up" a jacket like this, but I'd assume it'd probably would be similar to a unstructured jacket. However I can anticipate regarding drafting, it doesn't look that hard to be honest.
All I think you'd have to is juts square the fronts, shorten or "square" the lapel so it closes up like a shirt as shown in the photo, and lengthen the collar to match the end (or in other words the "notch" is at the end of the lapel). It seems relatively simple to make if your asking me.
—Solomon/Sol

tmakos

https://www.instagram.com/p/BGBeB23w87n/?igsh=YXI0czlydm0xdmp2

I found this picture on Instagram.
Thanks, maybe I'll give it a try.

SO_tailor

Also from what I see in the photo there doesn't appear to be a breast dart, so the only dart I would make would just be the underarm dart (it also has patch pockets, so you could likely make the underarm dart deeper if you'd want).

The edges do appear also to be machined/top stitched instead of pricked stitch, so maybe topstitch the edges a 1/4".
—Solomon/Sol

SO_tailor

Quote from: SO_tailor on February 11, 2024, 06:14:05 AMAlso from what I see in the photo there doesn't appear to be a breast dart, so the only dart I would make would just be the underarm dart (it also has patch pockets, so you could likely make the underarm dart deeper if you'd want).

The edges do appear also to be machined/top stitched instead of pricked stitch, so maybe topstitch the edges a 1/4".

Also the ways you'd top stitch a coat edge, is that you'd leave the machine threads long (like, say 4"/10 cm) when your start and finish (so before you clip off the threads leave them a bit longer too) and then you grab the needle and draw the threads inside the coat, and then clip off the thread. You never want to back stitch an edge, just draw them in.
—Solomon/Sol

Greger

A Blazer pattern would be nice. Square the bottom corner, if that is what you want. The fall (leaf) of the collar make it wider and longer. To decide the size and shape of the roll of the lapel- pin it to the collar. Trim what you don't want and finish the garment. Pin the pockets where you think you want them. Easy to move them. Usually 4 1/4 inch from the finished front edge. Up/Down to most useful.