Looking for an Evening tailcoat draft

[Gemma]

Hello,

I recently purchased a vintage evening tailcoat which I am using as inspiration/study. I want to make one in another size (for a 9 year old boy if it makes a difference).

My first pattern attempt was using the tuxedo pattern by Mrs Depew, but it's not really what I'm looking fof, for example the back (including tails) is all one piece with no shaping.

Looking online I've found an image of a draft which has exactly the style lines I'm looking for, however I can't find the instructions to go with the image.

Does anyone know where I can find the instructions, or can recommend a draft along similar lines?

Thank you

[TTailor]

No time to get into detail here right now, but have a look in the book section of this site.
There are many drafts available, with instructions, you just need to decide which one might work for you.

Bring any questions back and I'm sure someone will be able to assist in some way

[DrLang]

Take a look here from the old Cutter and Tailor Forum.
https://web.archive.org/web/20150915055209/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1061

I have no ability to comment on the accuracy of the translation or how suitable these drafts are for someone 9 years old.

Good luck! I would love to see your journey.

[Gemma]

Thank you very much, those look like just what I need and I will report back on how it works out.

[Greger]

Look up Harry Simons boys book. 1920s

[Steelmillal]

Up on insaspam. worth a look for good detail photos. Rgds
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0jlfoTI1Ip/?img_index=1

[Gemma]

I Followed the rundschau system DrLang linked to and the results are so much better than my previous attempt. I pretty much followed them as written, but there were a couple of vertical measurements which weren't based on the height measurement, I reduced those slightly to reflect the fact the intended wearer is significantly shorter than even a short adult!

Mockup is made from cotton twill which is quite stiff, I have medium weight wool suiting and hair canvas for the final version.

Does anyone have feedback on adjustments I should make before I attempt to draft the sleeves and collar pieces?

The back neck seems very high, should I drop it a little?

The top of the back could be more fitted, but not sure if the shaping there is to allow for movement?

The top/center back piece is over hanging the lower/side back piece, which piece should I change? Or should I just ease the length (the wool should be much easier to ease/stretch than the cotton twill).

[Gemma]

I've just been looking it on the hanger and it's definitely not right at the upper back! I will try again tomorrow...

[DrLang]

I'm probably way too green to be commenting, but here are some thoughts.

Your center back seam might have too much waist suppression unless you adjusted for that. The draft uses a standard value here that just tends to work on most adult men. Someone your son's age might only need half that amount. If that's the case, you can expect there to be a disproportion between the waist and shoulders in the back.

I have not even made a coat yet, so take anything I say here with extreme scrutiny.

[Greger]

Boys are usually more like a stout or slightly overweight men. This changes the pattern to fit someone closer to that. Body is shaped with more chest and less back. This is both height and width. The long back is pushing into the neck and excess is in the small of the back. If you pinch out across upper back with pins until the front and back balance properly. That would be how much to take off the top. The shoulder blades will not stand out as much as normal so the blade seam needs to be straighter. Back width is less and front width is larger. The tail needs a bit of shaping. I suppose you have no inlays for some of these adjustments.
David Carlin? Has a book about fitting.
In 1895 body coats were normal. The old cutter and tailor journals, school and books have directions for making patterns and fitting these garments. One of the books is for boys. With the proper inlays the style can be adjusted for todays normal. The fitting pages will help you a lot.
Any new pattern follow the directions for marking on junk cloth. Thread mark after chalking the pattern on the cloth. Add the inlays. Cut and sew according to the thread marks. The inlays are for the adjustments when fitting and stylizing. When that is sorted out you use the fitted garment for correcting the drawn pattern. Now with the corrected pattern chalk the cloth, add inlays cut and thread mark and baste together for a fitting. Because cloth is different inlays are important.
Don't ever cut darts until you know where they go and what size.
The existing garment the center back could be taken in. The back panel could be lowered on the side seams and a new waist line adjustment there. What else? The shoulder needs to be more crooked. But you probably don't have inlay to do that. The front is moved forward on the back. The neckline is redrawn and the scye is redrawn on the front.
Another book is Poulins. He shows inlays and some on fittings.
Patterns just simply don't work.

[Gemma]

Thank you everyone for the help - it's done! Yes, there's areas for improvement but I am so incredibly proud of this!