Mueller and Sohn Shirt Book

[tmakos]

Hello!

I've been thinking about buying the book on Mueller and Sohn shirts.
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/shop/download-pattern-making-menss-dress-shirts/

However, I've seen that there are a few outlines available from previous years here as well. My question is, how different is the purchasable book from the system found in the link below? Is it worth investing in?
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=515.msg4072#msg4072

[DrLang]

I don't know how much the system has changed since then, but just take a look at the table of contents for the book on that page. You can find a few very useful drafts here and there on this website, but nothing that rivals this amount of content. If I had the money the throw around and was interested in a variety of shirts, I would probably buy this book. But I'm also a sucker for books. Too bad it's digital only.

https://www.muellerundsohn.com/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/content_book_-pattern_making_mens_dress_shirts-1024x724.png

[Schneiderfrei]

Hi tmakos,

There's a few things to speak of:

The book you have linked to is specifically dress shirts.

There is a more general volume; https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/allgemein/pattern-construction-for-shirts/

In the past 20 years, there was a single volume with all kinds of shirts included. They all had basically the same bodice and sleeve, only the fashion points differed. So now I suspect they have broken things up a bit, obviously, but whether they present different drafts for bodice and sleeve I dont know.

As to early drafts: The 1973 draft that you have shown is certainly Rundschau, as are the drafts from the late 1950s -

https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=95.0 a business shirt,

https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1200.0 a sports shirt. 

There doesn't seem to be much change in the bodice between 1959 and 1973, so my experience with the early 3 drafts is that, in common with all shirt drafts from that time, they produce a shirt that is basically a bag, an envelope.

Rundschau from about 2000 on, on the other hand, produce a shirt that is much more 3D, conforming to a more box like shape. This modern draft is hugely better than the old drafts, a LOT better.

I suspect a lot of modern mass produced garments now follow this style. Have they used Rundschau? That would be interesting to know. Have they copied? Usual suspects??

I am very curious to know if there is a further change in the draft in these newer books??