Thoughts on Hostek's pants construction guidance?

[EvanTA]

I am working through the Men's Custom Tailored Pants book by Stanley Hostek with some corduroy I got from the scraps bin locally. I am temporarily setting aside concerns about pattern drafting/fitting* and just focusing on construction, so pockets, zipper flys, waistbands, etc. Figured why practice these elements in isolation, it seems like that only shows you so much, you need to construct an entire pant to see how decisions for one element affect another. I decided I'd just follow the approach as described by Hostek because I liked that he takes you through from start to finish in detail, though I am also referring to other materials like Coffin's book, Cabrera's, and videos from Rory Duffy.

I don't have a specific question on a particular step (I do struggle with some steps, but I just slog through slowly and redo work as needed), but wondered if people have general thoughts on Hostek's approach. I don't have a lot of context for how one can approach trouser construction, but my sense is his is somewhat old school but also elegant and clever in how the pieces all fit together. Anyone have any thoughts that would help me contextualize his approach compared to another era, another style, RTW versus bespoke, etc.?

*I found someone locally who does technical design and production for small brands, pattern-making, sample construction, etc., and they sometimes teach pattern-drafting one-on-one so I'll start to meet with them after the holidays to more deliberately learn pattern drafting. 

[TTailor]

I would have to reread his book to comment, but I do know that there are some methods I was taught that I definitely have modified and updated for the better.
Ease of alterations is important for what I make and some of those old methods are not alteration friendly.

[Greger]

Don't remember. But I think he added 1/2 inch along the back at outer sideseam. Some tailors like the extra width there because it adds weight so when walking it creates a swing in the pants movement. It is used for inlay if the pants need to be widen there.

The back pocket method something like that method, or it's the same method, another company does that. The waistband pocket makes a smoother transition between waistband and non-waistband.

I bought the book because I thought it would have some fitting advice. But it doesn't. The end of the book shows how to press the pants. How much you press the pants shape, each part, depends on the body shape that will be wearing them.

The shape of the two forks are slightly different. Since the forks overlap that is one reason. But the other reason is to force shape in the main cloth for a clean appearance.

Human bodies are not flat. Using various ways to create curves can make garments better. Take for example the hip pockets sewn on a flat sewing machine. That part of the body is curved. That is like taking a square peg and trying to put it in a triangle hole.

[theblacksheep]

hostek's book in a scrap bin?

his method of making up is generally a good one in my view, in particular the waistband and pockets. certain parts, like the fly facing and hem, with the taping, etc. can be done differently for a better, neater finish, with less reliance on handwork, but overall it is an excellent process and one to be recommended.

s.

[EvanTA]

There were a few steps where I couldn't totally understand what he wanted me to do, or it was maybe the case I had misunderstood a previous step and was no longer set up to correctly follow a later step. This was especially true for the fly facings and zipper. In those instances I just did what made the most sense given where I found myself. I imagine if I had more experience making up pants then I'd understand what he's after.

I expect, like other crafts, a lot of a job well done is figuring yourself out of problems. When I'm completely done I'll post some photos.

I do like his emphasis on low bulk, clean transitions, and extending the pocketing upwards as your waistband lining.