How to amend measurements in Tailor's pattern drafting

[Spongebob100000]

Hi All

Newbie here so hopefully I'm not repeating queries already answered.

I have some background in pattern drafting (costume studies 20 years ago) but taking the plunge into learning to draft my own tailors patterns (currently looking at A S Brigland for example, and also Rory Duffys method).

I feel a little overwhelmed trying to understand how to apply my own specific measurements - for example, are there 'rules' of how to apply the waist measurement across the 3 pattern pieces and correct length/ suppression to specific areas? The drafting instructions explain how do do so with the default measurements but not how to account for other sizes?

For example, if the book uses a 26 inch waist, and allocates 5 inches (after deduction of seam allowances) to the centre back panel, that equates to nearly 40% of 13 inches (I.e. half the waist measurent).
Would I therefore allocate 40% of my own specific waist measurement plus seam allowances? Or is that not how it is amended?

Is there a book on this/learning material? Many thanks

[TTailor]

When applying personal measurements to a standard draft you really do have to assess how proportionally different your measures are to the standard being used.

Measurements are not shape either, so distributing waist suppression for instance has to be where the shape of the body needs it, not necessarily in the same location or amount as the standard.

You might want to check out the German drafting systems which tend to go into much more detail and have different drafts for different figurations.

[DrLang]

Case in point about distribution of waist disproportion. I've been working through a waistcoat draft for myself and my waist is about 4" greater than the standard proportions. If I take a standard draft, it doesn't work very well. But my issue is explicitly a pot belly, so almost all of the disproportion is in the front. A typical draft for a corpulent body doesn't work well either, because the excess is more eventually distributed. Instead I had to find a method for a pot belly, which mostly resulted in changes to the front and significant changes in dart placement.

[Greger]

Some tailors use one to several patterns. From that they can adjust to any size and shape.

[Schneiderfrei]

There are drafts for specific postural types. You can't easily adapt one to the other.

Look through this forum. There are many resources to find, a corpulent draft is maybe the most useful, because it accounts for many postural conditions where the belly pushes forward.

Bear in mind: in tailoring the definition of corpulent is that the waist measurement is bigger than the chest.

In a corpulent posture, naturally, the weight is shifted forward. You can use a corpulent draft for other types of posture that may not be corpuent, but the weight is still shifted forward; eg sway back, pot belly, etc.

[DrLang]

This old post from the Cutter and Tailor Forum might be informative as it discusses the adaptation of standard waistcoat block patterns for different types of body proportions.

https://web.archive.org/web/20171230200208/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=794

[Gerry]

Some ladies cutting books use one's personal measurements. The methods given are usually for a closely-fitted bodice, which isn't much use to us in tailoring because jackets etc aren't skintight. Though said books do contain basic advice on how to adapt slopers for coats, shirts, overcoats etc. These books are invaluable as a supplement (rather than a replacement) to traditional tailoring methods, though. Their additional knowledge helps us to understand how to adapt patterns to our individual measurements.

If you have decent anti-malware software, then here's a decent book (method starts from page 5 onwards). Don't click on it otherwise (scummy, free, upload site):

https://vbook.pub/documents/patternmaking-mrohr-1948-x256vk58yqop

I'd also recommend looking at videos showing the draping of jackets (there are plenty on youtube). Even if you don't get round to doing any actual draping, this approach helps us to understand dart and seam placement, plus suppression and basic fitting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=useLw0Yw5jw

Plenty of other drapers on youtube too (also check out Kondo's draping library). Many drapers treat the body like a cylinder with a nominal amount of ease added all round. This literally translates as a block when we're flat-pattern drafting. Get the shoulders right, then start shaping that cylinder/block. It's how I think of things when I'm drafting.

I still haven't got round to looking at this video, but this young chap's info is usually very good:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJX1uP59yBo