overcoat/greatcoat cb pleat with vent and buttons

[theblacksheep]

hi all,

there are various methods of cutting the CB part of a greatcoat, with a box pleat that runs down the length of the coat.

in particular, i'd like to ask about the process of cutting one where the entire CB is cut on the fold of the cloth. how does one go about cutting and making up the back part to have an inverted box pleat above and below the waist, while having no CB seam, and having a two or four button vent behind the pleat, without seaming?

in the MTOC sections on uniforms, there are various references to cutting a slit for the vent and adding a seamed on piece for the buttons and buttonholes; there is also an explanation on folding the pleat section but this has the buttons concealed when fastened; the buttonholes are on the facing of the left pleat part and, of course, there is a seam if additional pieces are attached. the old rundschau greatcoat, mid 1900s, has the CB straight, to allow the CB to be cut on the fold, but also an indication for a buttoning vent; how would this vent with buttons be incorporated if the cloth is folded?

some images of various coats and backs are attached. i'd be grateful for all your thoughts, suggestions, and guidance.

this may well need to be moved into the coatmakers forum.

s.