Neapolitan jacket

[tmakos]

Hello,
I really like the Neapolitan tailoring style, but unfortunately, I can't find much information on how to create the pattern. The main question is perhaps how different it is from an English system or a Müller technique, and whether it can be transformed into a Neapolitan style jacket based on these.
Is it possible to achieve the design of the front dart (running up to the lower edge) by modifying a basic pattern, or would that distort the front panel too much?
Does anyone have a source for this type of editing system?
And can you provide a guide for the spalla camicia sleeve?

[Greger]

Have you looked here? Check the links at the bottom.
https://www.parisiangentleman.com/blog/the-italian-tailor-naples-and-the-neapolitan-jacket

[TTailor]

If you are using a pattern or a drafting system with a chest dart and a horizontal dart at the hip pocket you can easily change that to a single vertical dart that continues to the hem.

Cut up from the hem to the existing vertical dart on the side nearest to the centre front. Cut along  the upper line of the hip dart.
Move the section of the pattern below the pocket that is now released over, closing the hip dart.
This opens up the vertical chest dart to the hem.
I hope that helps.

The sleeve has extra width added, I would slash and spread the top sleeve and redraw the sleeve head but be careful about adding extra height. It will need a little but not much.
I believe this style also opens the upper seam allowance of the sleeve seam to flatten out the profile.

[Steelmillal]

...nother good place to browse.

https://web.archive.org/web/20170617185440/http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/soft%20tailoring

[Greger]

While these two patterns are not Italian they do have chest dart to hem.
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1229

[Steelmillal]

... jes tryin' ta hep ...

https://web.archive.org/web/20150922180137/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1229

[DrLang]

Curious question about this style. I've been looking at some photos as I want to make an unlined (or mostly unlined) waistcoat and jacket out of linen. It looks like from photos I have found that pocket bags are all just made from the same fabric as the shell. Is that what is going on? Or is a secondary fabric often used on the opposite side that is hidden from view?

[Gerry]

Curious question about this style. I've been looking at some photos as I want to make an unlined (or mostly unlined) waistcoat and jacket out of linen. It looks like from photos I have found that pocket bags are all just made from the same fabric as the shell. Is that what is going on? Or is a secondary fabric often used on the opposite side that is hidden from view?

I don't know about Neapolitan jackets specifically, but pockets usually have a 'facing'; which is the same cloth, but only at the opening. Enough material is used so that 'unsightly', often contrasting, pocketing isn't visible externally. The actual pocketing is generally Silesia or a similar, tightly-woven, cotton cloth.

If fabric is thin enough, then it could be used for pocketing. But it's a waste of good cloth and probably won't be as strong/durable as Silesia.

Patch pockets are the exception and they are typically found on Neapolitan jackets. But even these tend to be lined. Plus the breast pocket (unless also a patch) and the interior pockets (though they could be eschewed) will have pocket bags made from Silesia/different cloth.

[Gerry]

A couple of vids showing how to make patch pockets (for a suit). I didn't look at them in their entirety, but they are the standard approach:

https://youtu.be/Moi3huqLqpA?si=LZKxxG_mwaqb53go

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw8zM9AxbCA

[DrLang]

I'm more curious about what is going on in these jackets. It looks like they did not use a patch pocket. I forgot about the lining in patch pockets. I wonder if they just lined the visible part in the same fabric as the shell. That would make a lot more sense than what I was thinking.

[Gerry]

Most of the Neapolitan jackets I've seen (though often not by actual Neapolitan tailors) have patch pockets on the hips (and sometimes the breast). However, it does look as though they've used suiting for these pockets (thick lining in the case of the overcoat).

If they've bought the cloth in bulk they can probably afford to do this. Mostly, it's too scarce/expensive to do this. Plus it's probably not going to be as durable as actual pocketing. What happens when their pockets wear out?

It does get round the extra work of a facing, though (the whole pocket is the facing).

[Greger]

They may have faced the pockets and other parts with the outer cloth.
Some tailors like the full lining, because it takes less time.
Italy is a warmer climate and perhaps less cloth (lining) is cooler.