Fitting trouser muslin

Started by DrLang, September 28, 2023, 08:35:30 AM

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Bifurcator

I'm not expert and a learner myself, but visually...I'm seeing the same thing Posaune is seeing with tightness at the hip, I think you could use a little ease there.  On the front you can see, what appears to be stress wrinkles radiating horizontally.  This may also be due to fabric wrinkling, which looks like it could use a good pressing ;)

It seems like your back rise needs some length, as it appears to be diving in a little and the fabric around the upper thigh also looks like it's being pulled forward.  I think this is what Posaune was referring to with cutting out the back crotch, which I think is also called "scooping", but could be wrong about that. This will give you're body a little more room there and lengthen the seam. I'm curious what straightening the back crotch seam will do to the fit.  My knowledge/understanding is still lacking in that shape and area tbh.


Bifurcator

also for your fly stitching you mentioned some troubles sewing...
I find stitching the J stitch from the bottom up is more forgiving as any excess can be trimmed from the top.  It does look like the fabric is being stretched when sewing at the fly front so maybe just slowing down, controlling/moving the fabric under the needle so the feed dogs aren't pulling the bottom while the presser foot is strethcing the top will help.

DrLang

The J is actually hand stitched. I like the look of it with a half back stitch. It has a subtle appearance. Also bottom to top. Some of the problem there might just be the cut. I am thinking maybe a similar issue as with the back crotch.

I have adjusted the back seam a bit and Posaune was spot on with the issue. It's not perfect, but it is substantially improved. Of course, major adjustments there means that I need to add more at the side, and I was just not able to squeeze much of an inlay out of the fabric that I used. Not to mention that corduroy does not play well with being let out after a seam has been hard pressed open. So opportunity to fix this piece in particular are limited. I have one other thing that I want to try before I take some new photos. The local tailor that did the hem on my last pair wanted me to send photos of the next, so I feel obligated to do the best that I possibly can now before I do that.

The wrinkles on this are tough. What you see is almost as well pressed as I can get it. The angle of the light with these photos gives about the worst possible highlighting of the wrinkles. Good for seeing drape problems, but terrible for stubborn wrinkles on cotton fabric. I would just there to be about 4" of ease in the hips just below the pockets. It seems there is almost none at pocket level. So yeah... I think some cotton chinos might be in order for the next pair just so that I will have something easier to adjust and assess changes to my pattern.

I was hoping to cut trousers from my suiting next, but I think at least one more go at it is in order. Unfortunately, winter is also going to wrap up soon, which means I will be busy with other stuff. Progress is going to slow way down for a while.

Bifurcator

oh wow- hand stitched J stitch- nice.  It may just be the photo or corduroy fabric to be fair and as you mentioned the light/reflection.  I recently made a cord pant and struggled with the unevenness of the fabric especially with edgestitching and smaller details. Maybe, partly why corduroy is a more casual fabric.

DrLang

The last year was rough taking care of our elderly dying family dog. But it meant that I spent a lot of time on my sewing since I couldn't go far for long. Anyway, a couple new drafts and several pants later, this is where I am. Honestly, I am pretty happy with this. These fit better than anything I have had before, but I know they can be better.

Some thoughts. I think that the hips need a hair more ease at the side seams. The pockets pop open just a little bit.

I can't tell what is going on with the back crotch. It's hard to get a consistent photo, thus I posted three of the back. Sometimes it seems fine, and sometimes it wrinkles up. Just depends on what subtle posture I have in that moment.

The left leg is never hanging cleanly in the back. This has been the same consistent issue with every pair of pants I have made. So I am thinking this must be some kind of body asymmetry. One thing that I recently remembered is that my right knee is slightly twisted inward. So I included a photo trying to show this.  The photo doesn't do a great job showing exactly what is going on, but you can definitely see the asymmetry here. Is this a slight case of knock knee that could benefit from that kind of correction on one side? I just don't understand why my left knee seems fine, but that's the side with issues.

















Hendrick

Quote from: DrLang on March 14, 2025, 01:17:14 PMThe last year was rough taking care of our elderly dying family dog. But it meant that I spent a lot of time on my sewing since I couldn't go far for long. Anyway, a couple new drafts and several pants later, this is where I am. Honestly, I am pretty happy with this. These fit better than anything I have had before, but I know they can be better.

Some thoughts. I think that the hips need a hair more ease at the side seams. The pockets pop open just a little bit.

I can't tell what is going on with the back crotch. It's hard to get a consistent photo, thus I posted three of the back. Sometimes it seems fine, and sometimes it wrinkles up. Just depends on what subtle posture I have in that moment.

The left leg is never hanging cleanly in the back. This has been the same consistent issue with every pair of pants I have made. So I am thinking this must be some kind of body asymmetry. One thing that I recently remembered is that my right knee is slightly twisted inward. So I included a photo trying to show this.  The photo doesn't do a great job showing exactly what is going on, but you can definitely see the asymmetry here. Is this a slight case of knock knee that could benefit from that kind of correction on one side? I just don't understand why my left knee seems fine, but that's the side with issues.


















No body is exactly symmetrical and will try to compensate during growth. There is a chance that your hipbone is silghtly tilted; one knee looks slightly higher than the other. Personally in this case I would stretch out the left sideseam between hip and knee on the ironing board and do the same with the seat, but only the curved part of course. If you want to correct it in the pattern you will end up with left and right pattern parts with a different tilt...

Cheers, Hendrick

DrLang

Quote from: Hendrick on March 14, 2025, 06:56:42 PMNo body is exactly symmetrical and will try to compensate during growth. There is a chance that your hipbone is silghtly tilted; one knee looks slightly higher than the other. Personally in this case I would stretch out the left sideseam between hip and knee on the ironing board and do the same with the seat, but only the curved part of course. If you want to correct it in the pattern you will end up with left and right pattern parts with a different tilt...
Cheers, Hendrick

Interesting, I didn't even notice the height difference.

If I am understanding correctly, you suggest stretching in these locations? I like the idea of being able to fix this without a separate left leg pattern.



Hendrick

Quote from: DrLang on March 14, 2025, 10:07:32 PM
Quote from: Hendrick on March 14, 2025, 06:56:42 PMNo body is exactly symmetrical and will try to compensate during growth. There is a chance that your hipbone is silghtly tilted; one knee looks slightly higher than the other. Personally in this case I would stretch out the left sideseam between hip and knee on the ironing board and do the same with the seat, but only the curved part of course. If you want to correct it in the pattern you will end up with left and right pattern parts with a different tilt...
Cheers, Hendrick

Yes, but don't exagerate, if necessary do it in steps...

Interesting, I didn't even notice the height difference.

If I am understanding correctly, you suggest stretching in these locations? I like the idea of being able to fix this without a separate left leg pattern.