Fitting trouser muslin

[posaune]

Well, you draw the CF seam a little bit up. It will not be much maybe 1.5 cm. Then you draw an right angle so that the leg of the angle touches the waist seam somewhere about the center of the front half. Now you have a nice straight closure. And from there you curve gently that you meet the back side seam. Look at the drawing I did. This kind of drawing you do very often in patternmaking to get a smooth line.
Lg
Posaune

[DrLang]

I've been working on another pair of trousers using a nice remnant I picked up from B Black and Sons several months ago. I didn't realize that I was translucent and I can clearly see the stripes of the lining through the front. That's fine, I will replace the lining once I deal with an initial fitting. But this has me thinking that I also need to line the back. In this scenario, would it be best to line the back and install the hip pocket through the lining to prevent it from being visible?

Also, any thoughts on using linen to line light weight trousers?

[posaune]

 Just a feeling - I would not use linen as lining. I would take a nice acetate (Viscose or bamboo) and cut it till under the knee. the trouser can then fall nicely down. I know how this linings are behaving but not how the linen in tight contact to the outer fabric.
 Lg Posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

I certainly agree with posaune. Linen will not behave properly as lining. I've not seen bamboo as a lining, my bamboo socks always shrink. But if you want a natural fibre, I find silk is acceptable, but not satin or taffeta .

[DrLang]

Waiting for everyone to open back up it is then. Bamboo is just viscose rayon with different marketing, so that makes sense as a lining too.

[Schneiderfrei]

Ok, there you go...

[DrLang]

This is not quite the latest iteration, but not a whole lot has changed and I have started to take it apart to replace some of the basting with more secure stitching (especially the fly) and add some iron work which is presently absent.

There are a couple things that I still want to address, but the one thing that I just can't seem to figure out is that the legs in the back look almost like they are twisted, especially the right. This last photo is a substantial improvement from where it was, but some of that is purely due to the specific stance I had when this photo was taken. Giving the back fork a good stretch like Cabrera suggests did help quite a bit, but I feel like I am reaching the limit of what will not just cause other problems (it has been stretched out about 5/8").

Any suggestions for this issue in particular? I remember struggling with this on the last pair as well. In that case, a firm back crease hid most of what was left. But this fabric seems a little bit too light weight for that to work as well.

[Gerry]

Did you include balance points along the leg, specifically at the knee? If the seams don't match up and down their length, then you literally are twisting them. This is more apparent with machined seams, due to creep; but if you didn't include balance points when basting ...

Does the drape improve if you stand with your legs closer together? (check in a mirror). You have a noticeably open stance so if the legs have been cut totally straight, you're dragging them out of position slightly with your natural posture. Which could also be a cause of your lines.

[DrLang]

Thank you. I checked for changes with posture. It may actually be slightly worse with my legs closer together. I do have knee notches, but it would certainly be worth checking the balance above there. Transferring the plain top trousers to waistband trousers involved a lot more alterations to the side seams than I was expecting and it should not be surprising if something got out of wack.

[DrLang]

Again with this right leg. Balance is definitely part of the problem. I made a lot of improvement just opening the side seam and rebasting.

I think the back of the waistband can come down about 1 cm or a hair more. And I really wish that I could get the left front to lay more smoothly around the fly. I think this is just a skill problem compounded by how lightweight this fabric is.

[DrLang]

I made these up and took them to a tailor for hemming. A few things to improve on, most specifically a huge imbalance at the inseam from the pattern. I know how this happened, I just need to undo it. Cabrera's instructions for making up trousers has you given the back inseam a stretch, but he only expects the back to be about 3/8" shorter than the front. I think that I altered it a lot more when I was trying to figure out a fitting issue in my very first go around.

Next up with be some corduroys. I think that I might try to introduce a forward facing pleat in the front.

[Chanterelle]

lovely side adjusters! though, are they slightly off center or is the pant/posture a tad twisted in image 1?

[DrLang]

lovely side adjusters! though, are they slightly off center or is the pant/posture a tad twisted in image 1?

Looks like I need to adjust my gig line. It's definitely the waist being twisted off center.

[DrLang]

Well, I tried it again with some corduroy using the adjusted pattern from the last time. I adjusted the back inseam to be just 1/4" shorter than the front inseam above the knee notches.

Everything went together great and everything looks acceptable enough to me except for that pesky area just below the seat that still looks like a mess. For the life of me I cannot figure it out. Everything else looks acceptable to me. This might be another case where I need to go and pay a professional to see if they can figure out what is going on.

Still have some work to do improving the insides, but I am at least happy enough with how this one looks.

[posaune]

Nice inner architectur!
But the fit ain't. The front crotch and the back crotch are not nice. I think you need at first more width around the hips. Then the back crotch is too slanted. You have to release the seam. For more length maybe cut out the back crotch a bit. This is to be seen later. Corduroy is a soft fabric and stretches a lot.
Lg
Posaune