Canvas/Hymo/Horsehair etc. what do you look for when buying online?

[Tailleuse]

If buying online, I cannot recommend Bias Bespoke too highly. I've bought several things from them in their short existence and have been to their workroom three or four times.https://www.etsy.com/shop/BiasBespoke  Their products have decent descriptions, and if you have further questions, someone will promptly respond to your email.  https://www.etsy.com/shop/BiasBespoke?section_id=15909714

[Claire Shaeffer]

I have not purchased from Bias Bespoke but I ordered their samples. They came immediately and they have a variety of qualities--which is good. Everyone isn't sewing bespoke or couture.
Claire Shaeffer

[Tailor1]

Following in case of reply

[Hendrick]

Some of these places have a phone number you can call. Then there is email. Tell them what cloth you have. Is the coat for a woman or a man? Is it to be soft, medium or firm? Is the canvas going in straight or one of the bias methods? They might even know the book or lessons you are learning from. I would avoid fuse. For vest ask for vest canvas, which will probably be holland linen, there are a couple others. Collar canvas should be linen for a coat, if it has french in its name buy that one. There is a special canvas for the chest area that has horse hair. Being for the chest area it is shorter than the regular coat canvas, you will need both. Then there are other items. Stay tape, sleeve roll, felt or Melton for collar, felt for chest, shoulder pads or wedding if you are going to make them, wiggan for cuff about 5 inches wide and full circumference, etc. No harm in asking what they have

Yes! Fuseable horsehair is horribl; tried it once, never again!

Cheers, Hendrick

[Greger]

How does one shape fuse?

[Hendrick]

How does one shape fuse?

That was exactly what I was trying to find out. In the garment industry, these are cut on a computer linked cutter, then fused to the shell with a form press. Needless to say it doesn't work with an iron...

[Greger]

My lessons were shaping the garment around the person. Some of it is the cut and some is using the iron. Fuse does not allow proper iron work at all.

[TTailor]

You cannot shape it with the iron of course but fusible hymo has uses other than in the chest of a coat.
I would not fuse it ever directly to the fashion fabric, but laminated to other fabrics or materials to create stable structure in a variety of situations like for waistbanding, military or period collars, doublet tabs.

[Greger]

Those sound like good reason, TTailor.

[Hendrick]

You cannot shape it with the iron of course but fusible hymo has uses other than in the chest of a coat.
I would not fuse it ever directly to the fashion fabric, but laminated to other fabrics or materials to create stable structure in a variety of situations like for waistbanding, military or period collars, doublet tabs.

Indeed! I used to it shape a basque on a womens'piece...

[Greger]

A warm iron?

[Hendrick]

A warm iron?

Nahh, just fused the parts on the press... sorry

[Der Zuschneider]

Bias Bespoke has the right material but very expensive.

I skipped Bias Bespoke and ordered directly from Italy and Germany and bought whole roles of horse hair and camel hair. I could choose from plenty of swatches and took the best. Very springy and as light as possible. Since I bought whole rolls, I have material until I die. Today those connections are closed by covid and high shipping costs.