Some beautiful draftings about men's coat,I want to konw the name of the books!

Started by Dmm890824, January 23, 2023, 03:13:34 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

SO_tailor

Quote from: TTailor on January 28, 2023, 11:24:11 PM
In spite of a decision to limit adding to my cache of books, I think I may try to download the book and get it printed for reference.
The styles of this time are quite interesting.
Beautiful drawings!

I agree Terri, I looked at the book and it had a good explanation on manipulating shoulders and armholes at the end. The draft had some similarities with Poulin's coat draft from Tailoring Suits, particularly where the armhole point is found (2/3 scale + 1, 1/2"/4cm), as well as some T&C drafts.
—Solomon/Sol

Hendrick


I also like the drawings (that's how I remembered the book in the first place...) I particularly like the organic forms and placement of pockets in these

Greger

My opinion is to create a pattern system that works with how you think and size the customers up to get pertinent locations. Style lines are drawn later. The pertinent locations are moved according to the style and fit desired. Looking at old systems show us methods of creating patterns and styles. Some tailors use systems over 100 years old but, produce modern styles with them. The cutter who made these patterns above was certainly an artist. Some old tailors would talk about straight lines or curved. Some would take the straight lines and press them into curves. A hand sewn seam allows for more shaping than machine sewn. And what is trying to be produced? Mass production?  Any number of the best bench tailors?

Greger

A couple of coats have breast darts. This would certainly help date these patterns if they are all from the same book. One has a seam down the chest that would be useful for fitting the chest.

Dmm890824