Trouser drafting/fitting

[nailclipper]

Notice that you can barely see the curvature of the back; and the open darts - the CB seam is actually a dart too, right at the top, to help avoid gapping at the small of the back - make it look quite flat. It is slightly convex, however.
https://flic.kr/p/2p2UAW1

Could you take a picture of this? If i understand correctly, what you did was to ensure a 90º angle at the top of CB seam.

When striking the cloth, I also mark out material at the top of the darts to compensate for the angularity that closing them causes. As TSjursen mentioned, these details get sorted out when making the trousers.

I do 1/4" but never really paid much attention to it, is that fine?

[Gerry]

Where curves that mirror each other meet, it's always best to have a brief flattening of the line either side of the centre point before the curving begins/ends. So yes, small 90 degree angles either side of the CB line at its top.

You can't actually see that on my draft because the CB is also a dart and has been cut out (just a quirk of mine). If you're wondering why the darts are so small it's because the rise is pretty low (they're all that is required). Furthermore, what was initially allocated for darts was divided by three (instead of two), to be reallocated to the two back darts as well as the CB seam's dart. You should be able to make out that the CB is also a dart in this snap:

https://flic.kr/p/2p2Xw1x

This pattern is tried and tested, so no inlay. However, I add a generous seam allowance. This allowance, and the extra I add to the top of darts, allows me to smooth out any angularity in the waistline when completing the waist. I don't give too much thought to marking the outline of the darts on the cloth. This sort of thing usually suffices:

https://flic.kr/p/2p2YZ34

Honestly, don't get too obsessed with trying to get perfect waistline curvature in a draft. It really isn't that important if you've left inlay. As I said earlier, you're on a hiding to nothing going down that route.

[Gerry]

For completeness, here's what the waistline curve looks like (very subtle). I only do this to get a smooth run at the side seam. Once the dart has been made up, the middle of this seam becomes quite distorted and everything thereon towards the CB becomes a bit of a fiction (see second photo). Hence the need for generous seam allowance or inlay.

https://flic.kr/p/2p35S9d

https://flic.kr/p/2p35S9i

Trying to predict the actual curvature needed for a draft, in order to get a smooth line once the darts are closed, is pointless. It's a lot simpler to sort it out by eye when making the trousers. The curve towards the side seam works, and that's all I'm interested in (one less thing to correct later).

[TSjursen]

The shape of the top of the trouser is a minor thing, you will figure that out when sewing it up or in a fitting.

You say you want to reduce the balance without changing the seat seam angle. Can you try to explain what you want to achieve by doing this? Ie how does the trouser look now and how do you want it to look when the alteration has been made?

Have tried quite a few methods, but most seem to give a wedgie/reduce comfort. Would like to retain as much comfort in the back seat while looking as clean as possible.



Having done many fittings, I now realise its impossible and not ideal to have a 100% clean fit (comfort). Posture gets really bad when legs are tired etc...

Gerry's post gave me an idea and a good compromise so far.

I see, yes it is correct that it is not possible to combine a comfortable trouser and a clean seat. If your alteration makes a wedgie I suggest scooping out the seat seam some more instead, that will give a clean seat but still at a cost to comfort. Just make sure you tell the customer about this up front and you'll be good, many people are used to wearing "standing trousers" that resist every movement of the wearer, and if that is what the customer wants then so be it.