Kid Friendly Rust Removal

[Steelmillal]

We had a barn roof leak...


...

[Hendrick]

Vinigar & good luck 2u!

[Schneiderfrei]

But not too much vinegar or too long. . . . bitter experience.

[Steelmillal]

I've done vinegar, too, and left lie long term to see what happens to sacrificial items. I now use molasses and water, 1:10 ratio. I've a bucket of feedstore molasses that's been around long enough to now smell like the richest balsamic paste like substance I've ever smelled before, and it was amazing. Was tempted to drizzle on biscuits, but passed, ha-ha.

https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/51806-remove-rust-using-molassas/
https://practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/rust-removal-using-molasses.90452/
https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/removing-rust-with-molassas.393010/

I've shears to photograph and pipe fitting that are still in lactic acid (whey left from cheese making to try since someone would ask). I also have some long-term stuff that is under water to capture and share. Plain water works fine, but is very, very slow.

Point is you can do this around kids and pets without worry of poison, pissing off house/flat mates, or burning up a battery charger I'll show the full steps I do in a day or three, all the way to paint.

[Hendrick]

Keep me posted! Some of my dad's old kit has been sitting, waiting for years (he was an gardener and fruit lover)

[Steelmillal]

"bitter experience"

..made me laugh for sour acid, but know the pitting story. It happens.

dad's old kit has been sitting, waiting for years

Absolutely Hendrick. Brass is the only thing I remove unless I use only water then in it goes. Alloy is still a mystery for oxide resto work. I've an unbranded large Wiss that will take the plunge tonight.

The links are very good. There's something about a Fiat 500 on YT using molasses and cider vinegar but I havent watched it. Looks like he painted it on...

[Hendrick]

I'll have the "cinquecento a l'aceto" for starter and come back...

[Schneiderfrei]

I ruined a pair of 14 inch shears by taking my friends advice and soaking them in vinegar for 3 days.  Ended up like steel wool - a moderate exaggeration.

[Hendrick]

That, apparently has to do with the percentage carbon and sometimes silicium in hardened steel... I cleaned a full box of old Stanley Sweetheart chisels in a solution of destilled water and citric acid; came out like new. (wonderful tools, by the way)

[Steelmillal]

I use rainwater, or our well water with super saturated disolved iron content for very gentle soaks. This year it seems the very humidity in the air is very acidic. Old rust has been reactivated, noticed by colour change, which is speed indicator. No, I didn't say Chemie trials and no, I won't post the video proof..


Schneiderfrei, I'd wonder if what you ended up with was the seeing pits that were hidden somehow. I've seen that, and still have the pair. I'll dig up and document.

Hendrick, why are you trying to goose the market on sweetheart stamp'd things. Gotta brace of concave spokeshaves you need to part with?!? I've things to trade maybe and dhl ships ever'where 

[Steelmillal]

Things are going swimmingly, but can't post photos for proof.
Scotchbrite grit chart. Comes in handy.
https://www.thetonerooms.com/threads/scotchbrite-grit-chart.3674/

[Steelmillal]

Things are going as expected. Extra time is the issue. I have left things under water for over a year without a dulling of the polish being the worst of it. Rust is a bubble, a chemical bubble transforming base metal into oxides. Same mass, different place.


My rule: "If the cutting edge got's shine, you'll be fine. If it's ruddy brown, put it down or gotta be regroun'". Won't cut paper otherwise.




Same shears were probably closed for decades. Soaking now and very excited to use. Hendrick, go on and set up for your Dad's garden stuff and start. I've more to share but would say it if didn't know it works of rare stuff. More follows...

[Steelmillal]

Direct from the water, the bottom was 'dusted' yesterday for inspection

Just after scrubbing in tub of rainwater using nylon brush. Nothing left but black iron, brass, and what seems to be brick mortar?!?

The larger one, unstamped Wiss split nut, still cuts a little, but will sing in a few hours. The Compton will need some inside blade adjustments and tuning.

I'll set up the finishing stuff and document all that in more detail, with chemical suggestions that are and are not pet/kid friendly. Worst of it is the paint and in-process rust inhibitors. The bare metal, scrubbed from oxides. left out in the air will immediately start to rust.
-

[Steelmillal]

Moving right along. 6-P process: Pickel, passivate, prep, polish, prime, paint.

In the prep phase, I use auto antifreeze to bathe the small pieces in until ready to paint. I got the idea from a Japanese bladesmithing company. The solvents in painting will wick off the last of the glycol. I stopped by an auto parts store to see what environmental options were on the shelf and found too many options. I use the green stuff. Glycol, rust inhibitors, and oxygen shielding is what you need, whatever you use.

Building a temporary wooden tank, now, for an industrial table bought with a singer 251-3. That will be worth seeing start to finish.

This is worth the read, as I have comment later that improves the performance results, using what Sator used and adding only one step.
https://web.archive.org/web/20130616000156/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=82