shirt fitting issues

[tmakos]

Dear tailors and shirt makers!

I would like help fitting a shirt.
What I think:
- the back width is too wide
- the shoulder line is too long
- the sleevehead does not fit at the back, adjust this, move the center line further back

I apologize for my English, I don't really speak the language.

[TTailor]

If you want a close fitted shirt, the shoulder line is too long
Yes the back is wide and it looks out of proportion with the fit through the waist, and with the close fit of the front. You could change the shoulder line and reduce the width of the back yoke and put a pleat in the back body to keep some of the fabric for ease.
I recommend stay stitching the neckline to keep it from stretching, and to baste on a trial collar at this stage.

Be careful of over fitting.

[Gerry]

You haven't pinned below the main bulk of the darts. You'll likely get material flaring out, randomly, if you leave things to chance. Pin the darts in their entirety so that there are no nasty surprises later.

Bear in mind that when pinching at the waist (a good thing, don't get me wrong) the lower 'leg' of the dart will start to kick out from that point downwards. The more you pinch, and/or the shorter the lower part of the dart, the more flaring will occur. Yet we have the small of the back to contend with before we want this shaping over the backside. So elongate each dart through the small of the back as a set of (more-or-less) parallel lines, before 'closing it'. Again, pin everything beforehand.

I agree with Terri, don't over-fit things. Personally, I like to see a straight drop/drape from the top of the shoulder blades. Pinching out less at the waist will do this, and also prevent 'ballooning' of material above the waist: if things are too tight at the waist, the cloth over the shoulders can't drape/fall naturally, so it collects above as a puff. Once the subtler dart is past the natural waistline, you can continue it down to the hem as parallel lines. This keeps everything below the waist flat at the back, yet still takes in material around the hips and seat. It's a more elegant look and, when taken to the hem, the darts end up looking more like seams, which, aesthetically, looks better in my opinion.

Either way, you'll get more control over shaping the longer those darts extend downwards.

[Gerry]

PS, it's difficult to tell, because your trousers are sagging, but the hem of your shirt could do will being a little lower/longer. With shirts intended to be worn outside of trousers, I like to take the hem down to the fullest part of the seat. Yours looks a little short.

[Gerry]

This is the back of a shirt I'm finishing off at the moment. You can see the darts continuing to the hem:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/194911850@N05/52819082531/in/dateposted/

[Greger]

It looks to me that you have several postures. The only one that will work is the one that is normal for you. All the other ones will make shirts that don't fit and are uncomfortable and you won't look good in them.
The pattern has so much cloth in front and so much in the back. Your chest needs more in the front. To keep the same circumference the back width needs to be less. You can add to the front by adding to the front edge and neckline. The shoulder needs to be shortened  changing the armhole shape. The other other way is to widen at the side and changing the armhole. If you didn't add inlays, then you have to buy new cloth.
The back sides need to be moved in, and armhole reshaped.
With a chest juts out the front length needs to be longer above the outer shoulder. The back needs to shorter. Some tailors slide the back down on the sideseam about 1/2 inch, more or less. To keep the same armhole shape they move the seam down at end of shoulder outer end the same amount. The bottom edge they trim off the same amount.
The front neckline might need to be changed.

[Petruchio]

I would also think that you need more width in the chest and less in the back. Also, it is rather hard to see because of the bulky jeans, but I would think that you need more front balance as well (in the bust). The shoulder width is too wide and I would take out the sleeve to check the armhole .
If you look at the third picture, it seems like the neckline of the yoke is of, so you might change that as well.
In general, the cloth you use looks like a linen or a rather heavy mouslin, so it might be more forgiving than, say, a thin popelin. Just to keep that in mind.

[tmakos]

Hello,

thank you everyone for your comments!
I used the following design:

the problem is actually that the measured data and the calculated size are different, is it better to take the measured size into account? How much relief do you usually use on the back width and chest width?

The frontal balance is actually not bad, the client was not photographed with the general posture in the picture. I only roughly marked the darts position first to see how much the waist would allow.

Where should the shoulder seam run? I don't fully understand this part. Should I take it from the top of the yoke and add it to the front?

Indeed, it is a linen material!🙂

[tmakos]

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=88.0

[Petruchio]

Hello,

thank you everyone for your comments!
I used the following design:

the problem is actually that the measured data and the calculated size are different, is it better to take the measured size into account? How much relief do you usually use on the back width and chest width?

The frontal balance is actually not bad, the client was not photographed with the general posture in the picture. I only roughly marked the darts position first to see how much the waist would allow.

Where should the shoulder seam run? I don't fully understand this part. Should I take it from the top of the yoke and add it to the front?

Indeed, it is a linen material!🙂

Good place for the shoulder seam is the bone structure on the top of the shoulder (Acromion). You can feel it actually. From there you can go 0,5 - 1 cm beyond if you like, but from your pictures I think you are at least 2 -3 cm off.

Concerning the balance: If he is standing overly erect and this posture isn't his normal stance, it is really hard to give you any definitive advice, because both the tight chest and the vertical balance issue can be caused by his "photo" stance.

[posaune]

The calculated measures are for a standard proportional person. (Who is??) If you have no measurements or faulty ones it is good to have them. If you do custom you go after your measurements. First you look at the customer, write down what you see. Then take the bust circ. Calculate with the formulas all the measurements (named proportional) and write them down in a table.  Now compare them to the personal measurements you took and look where and why they differ. 
This guy has a developed dust. And he presses  his tummy into front. So you need to have more in front. Do not forget to measure the waist and the hip.
lg
posaune
in my eyes: a shirt in combination with 6 cm ease and a classical draft do not go well together

[tmakos]

If I understand correctly, the measured values of chest width and back width, taking into account the ease (1 cm for chest and 4 cm for back) and the width of the scye, allow me to adjust the desired style (slim, regular) more accurately.