Plus size men's suit draft

[pfaff260]

An important measurement for big bellies not often taken is the front lenght.
But it can help to check if the pattern has enough lenght in the front.

[Schneiderfrei]

Another excellent representation of balance measurement, thanks pfaff260

[Steelmillal]

Wasn't "thinking" while surfing and this fell out. Donlon wedge at hem?

[Greger]

It is not open at the hem. There is no seam there. What you do is chalk around the pattern from underarm fish to shoulder, gorge, lapel, down the front an part of the hem to that "wedge", and mark that spot. Stick a pin thru the pattern into the cloth up at the pocket, top of "wedge". Rotate the pattern so the second part of the "wedge" touches the mark at the hem. Now, draw what is left of the pattern, except the hem line. Remove the pattern and draw the hem with a yard Stick from front curve to side bottom corner.
What this did is shorten the length of the hem.
Some tailors use one pattern for every size (up to 8 sizes), shape, style from vest to great coats to capes and whatever else they can think of. Grading a pattern 4 sizes up and 4 down. After that it's probably best to use another pattern for another 8 sizes, because of distortions. But, from thin to fattest, one pattern will do.

The reason why I say don't cut the wedge is because wedge varies from person to person and details they might like on other coats. The basic pattern is all you need for all manipulations. By shifting the pattern you can create baggy to thin. Lengthen and shorten parts of it. Straighten or crooked.
Another way of thinking about shifting patterns is to listen to the customer, look his body over and the picture of the pattern in your mind shift the various parts where it belongs for what he wants. Then take the pattern and shift the pattern on the cloth chalking here and there. The pattern is merely a guide to help you get there. Inlays help you fine tune when fitting. Sometimes customers don't look good in their ideas, or change their minds. Inlays and special cuts are your friends for designing coats on the customer. Cloth gets very expensive otherwise.

[posaune]

terry, can you give me neck circ and body heght - so i have enough proportional measurement to fill in.
lg
posaune

[Greger]

The MTOC has some directions.  Not sure you are interested in them.

[pfaff260]

Oh Posaune! That would be nice if you did the pattern. Love to see it!!

[TTailor]

Posaune, I sent the measurements by message.
Once I received the measurements, I realized he does not have quite anywhere the belly like in the article, but  still am dealing with a 160 cm chest, slightly bigger waist and hips.
No photos, and there are some measurements I can try to use to Determine balance, but no specific balance measures were taken
Fun, right? 🤷‍♀️

[Steelmillal]

The MTOC has some directions.  Not sure you are interested in them.

Had them to hand, if these they. Heading to the back of the class for 'dunce review' 

[Greger]

One book I have probably calls the person Stout. Between regular and corpulent. Can't get to the book now. Stout is another descriptive word some tailors use.

[posaune]

Now I did the pattern: Basic Pattern after the draft we saw in the russian Atelier. (I am using a pattern computing program) Terry gave me some numbers from her customer.
As the Müller system is a proportional system - most measurements are calculated ( but you can use "measured" measurements too) The body height were in my opinon not right so I used 185 cm as Body height.  Now proportional measurements are a help - nothing else. In this case they gave maybe wrong pattern. I got at hip an ease about 12.3 cm (half pattern), this is at the upper end of the tolerance for ease (8-12 cm). What happened? And how to avoid it?
Terry gave me the main circs but not the measurements which Rundschau calls "Hilfsmaße". This are measurements which are calculated from the body measurements, depending mostly from Body height (length) or bust circ . So if you are not the standard proportional person (who is?) you better control what you calcultated. I filled in what Terry gave me.
I run the program and got a pattern. Then I controlled the bust and waist and hip circ I got.
I got 10 cm ease at Bustlevel and 10cm at waist but 12.3 cm at hip. That is a bit much. But at all not so bad. Terry wrote the customer had not so much a belly - so the problem will lay somewhere else. (Please note: you do not need more ease with a corpulent person - the body texture is "softer" there are not so much muscles which needs more room)
If you want to be more sure you should measure the Back width (easiest of the helping Measurements) If it differs from the calculated - you know you will have a problem and look further. 



Now we have a difference between bust and waist of only 2.5 cm, why do I got a big belly draft? The Belly point in Müller is derived from the formular 1/4 Waist + 0.5 -1cm. Bustwidth (Bb),  Belly point (Ba)  and hip width are measured from the At line (front armhole line) to the center front. And the Bb is 6 cm smaller as 1/4 Tu+0.5.
If the difference is 0 you get a normal draft. The slant you get at upper CF is because ot the difference between the 2 measurements. in our case abot 6.5 cm

[TTailor]

Posaune, 5hanks, that is very interesting!
Yes I mistakenly wrote to you the wrong height, it's actually 175 cm.

I find the proportional formulas very useful especially the back width, just to determine if the numbers I am provided seem right, or close or completely off!
I don't often get a full set of measurements to work from so the proportions become very helpful.

If I get pictures taken when the measurements were done, it is so helpful. Then I can really see how the body is shaped.

It's great that you have a program to create a base pattern.
Once I do my pattern I will show you the end result.

[posaune]

I worked a bit at the pattern. First I set in the right height 1.75m instead of my assumed 1.85. See Pic 1 and how the formulas worked
Then I prepared he pattern like in the journal. There Mr. Seidel wrote :"Even as the balance measurements were about right and the posture did not show something not "normal" I added in back more length, because of the corpulence. If I did not do this the back would be too short and stand away at center." To get the balance again he had to add at front too.
See Pic 2.
Then I had a lovely hour doing the pattern. See pic 3. I only did the front. Interesting was how he set the buttons.
lg
Posaune

[TTailor]

👍😁

[Greger]

That's a nice looking pattern, Posaune.