Plus size men's suit draft

[TTailor]

I recently found this image while on Pinterest and it is in Russian but it also has a Muller copyright which leads me to believe a version in German must exist.
Can anyone identify it or possibly have the pages of the draft being discussed?

[posaune]

I think I have it. It is from Müller  you are right. And the tailor is Manfred Seidel as far as I remember.
lg
posaune

[TTailor]

I would love to see it if you happen to have time to look for it and feel comfortable sharing it with me.
I will be making a suit for an Opera singer later in April.

[Steelmillal]

How very Sydney Greenstreet.



It would be interesting to see, all in, if the client, etc., permits.

[Schneiderfrei]

I should like to see a version made up in stainless steel.

[Steelmillal]

How 'bout chalk stripes?

[Greger]

Read somewhere recently the side body cut can be cut to eliminate the Don lon wedge somewhat. The purpose of the Don lon wedge is to shorten the hem length under the belly. The belly to the neck point is longer, so it goes up and out a bit. Buttoning location is decided at the fitting.
Some years ago on men's clothing forums the saying is higher Buttoning point. It got ridiculously higher and higher. This one overweight guys belly bulged out beyond the coat because the button was too high. It looked awful.

[TTailor]

For me, I use the wedge to take care of the tenting that happens in the fabric below the belly.
I was interested to see how the proportional formulas changed from standard in the article above.

[posaune]

Hi Terri, I am sorry I did not found the article. I have read it, because I used it for a draft for my husband.  I went through much of the journals and books I have. But nada.
I can ask at Rundschau if you want.  you need 1/2 Bu +4 seams (61 + 3 cm= 64cm ) and what your calculated  is 73.4  you have 9.7 cm ease at bust.
This is the ease you have to have. if you calculate with Bb = 2/10 of Bu +4 cm your Belly point (Ba) is about 1/4 Tu + 1-1.5 cm. So if Bb  is 28.5 (Bu 122) the Ba (Waistcirc= 132 cm) is  34 cm. This difference gives you the slant of CF.
I can copy you another Big Belly Draft - if you want.
Lg posaune

[Hendrick]

Thank you all, this is very interesting indeed... I always admired the tailors who dressed the likes of Winston Churchill.  (And Helmut Kohl for that matter!)

[pfaff260]

I will have a look. It must be somewhere.

[posaune]

Hi Pfaff 260
This  Russia "Atelier" showed articles from the years 2010  up to 2017. I thought it was in the book "Meisterschneider" It was not! The book was  printed in 2007. In this book Herr Seidel gives a very thoroughly lecture how to alter your pattern for a very forward bend man. He uses his helping shoulder device as in the russian pic for the balance - Times fly by.
Lg
posaune

[pfaff260]

Yes Posaune, it was an artikel in 2010 or 2011. But can i post it on the forum??
Considering royaulty rights. I can remember that Schneidergott had an agreement with the Rundschau.
But that was, if i remember correctly, only for articles from the last century and not this one.

[posaune]

I think I can do the drafts - no problem - then we have done them (as I wrote I used it for my husband).  We can explain in our own words. we should not use the photos - but they are there in the russian page. And we must write from which source we worked. So we will not violate the copy right.
lg
posaune

[TTailor]

Thank you so much Posaune! very helpful.
The person I am making for is 160 cm chest, 164 waist and 166 hips. Lucky for me, someone recently took a full set of measurements that I will work from. so not exactly the shape in the article but I find it very useful to see this approach. It gives me lots to think about.

I do not want to cause any copyright issues so please do not post anything that you feel is not proper.
I would be happy to buy this if it is/was available as a journal issue.