About the armhole hight

[Hendrick]

Gerry, I use nearly the same method (my dad used to call "old", because in old methods most measurements were radiusses from center front and back at the waist) to veryfy any womens' pattern. Especially because I hate to see the shoulder seam from the front when a person is standing. I have yet to come across a formula to define a high and precise armhole, but what helps me is a bendable ruler. I like to measure, as you do, with shoulder pads in place. For women, I slip them under a stretchy t-shirt so they may be moved and adjusted. Measuring around the back-neck, over high shoulder point to center waist plus over back-neck over chest point to waist and lastly low shoulder point to waist, I have three measurements. These allow me to verify front pattern, decide under lapel dart and avoid a floating neckline above chest height...

[Gerry]

That sounds very similar Hendrick. I also take measurements (front and back) from the high part of the shoulder (side of neck) to waist.

Seems to be a thing of ladies' cutting systems of a certain vintage: Rohr's book is for womenswear. Although I don't follow his method religiously - I throw in stuff I've learned from tailoring books and from watching drapers at work - it's by far my favourite cutting book. There are many editions and, weirdly, they become more cryptic as time goes on. Eventually (IIR), he abandons the 'how to' part of his method and later editions show scaled-down blocks, to be expanded by the student. The 1948 edition is great though. I found a free PDF scan on a dodgy download site.

[posaune]

An example (but it is womans wear) is described in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqFiVww0p84&t=1s
But I always thought in garments for musicians and dancer the sleeve is drafted so that it has a "built in" gusset.
But I do not know.
lg
posaune

[TTailor]

I draft a built in gusset on the sleeve for many theatre costumes and definitely for all dance/ballet work I do.
The armscye depth is important, but most often I use a calculated depth and the sleeve does most of the work. The suit jacket sleeve should still look like a suit jacket sleeve if you know what I mean. The gusset isn't overly large.  My ballet sleeve gusset height is almost the height of the depth of crown of the sleeve.

If the fit in the body is snug, the armscye depth comes up a bit to match the fit of the body.

[Enzo]

About the woman's drafting book by M.Rohr which seems to have some interesting informations I would be very happy to find it. Gerry did you know where to fond it on the web ? Or any element like the title or keywords to look for it ?

[Gerry]

About the woman's drafting book by M.Rohr which seems to have some interesting informations I would be very happy to find it. Gerry did you know where to fond it on the web ? Or any element like the title or keywords to look for it ?

You can find it here. With my security software, I have no issues, but I take no responsibility for any spam/malware you may encounter (it's a dodgy site):

https://vbook.pub/documents/patternmaking-mrohr-1948-x256vk58yqop

The method doesn't begin until page 5 onwards (ignore the stuff before the author's forward); and there's no spoon-feeding (you may need to read through it a few times until the penny drops).

Bear in mind that virtually all ladies cutting systems outline their method for creating a fitted bodice. Mostly in tailoring we don't want to create anything that tight. So what I've mostly taken from Rohr's book is his shoulder-angle method. It works well and was borrowed by Don McCunn (assuming Rohr was the first to come up with this idea) for his similar method. I use a mixture of the two books, but there's a lot of extra, invaluable stuff in Rohr's method.

Not the be-all and end-all of cutting, but a good foundation. As I mentioned previously, I use the above in conjunction with other stuff I've learned from tailoring and draping books/vids.

[Greger]

With deep scyes the combined sleeve length and body length are too short. The way Terri suggest is an excellent method for finding the scye depth. Most pattern systems give several body measurements to draw from. if you use those measurements, you can make adjustments later after the pattern is drawn. Scye depth may be off. With your own personal measurement, put that at the bottom of the scye in back of drawn pattern, run it up to find the bottom of the neck. Move your neckline up there and draw the new shoulder angle. Lets say that you moved the back neck up 4cm, take that measurement and move the neck-shoulder point on the front pattern piece up that same amount and draw the new shoulder line angle. If the pattern is a size to small or large grading it would come first, and other adjustments follow. You would be lucky to come across a pattern that fits without adjustments. Also recommend that after drawing a good pattern that you measure from the top of scye to bottom of scye to get an idea of what that measurement could be. Some guys have large muscles in that area, and other guys don't. Want to be careful that enlarging by cutting away doesn't shrink another part.
The purpose of seam allowance is so that the sewn seam doesn't pull apart. Inlays are for fitting and people who gain weight.