Scholte Drape Cut formula

[SO_tailor]

I have good news my fellow tailors (respectively the cutting side), because I'm confident that I have "cracked the code" on this original Scholte drape cut. I'll get into more details after the formula. But for a brief introduction, there was a article from an 1954 issue of the T&C by "J King Wilson" who apparently worked for Scholte (see the images below). Wilson gave an article on the drape cut draft, but unlike a instructional draft, it was a "replicate" of a sample.
So basically I drafted out the distances that were in the article, and drafted an accurate replica, and then tried to figure oout the approximate calculations Scholte may have used. Wilson said it was a sample size 40.

(Page 1)

(Page 2)

Before I go any further I do want to mention that Scholte probably did a lot of "rock of eye" in his drafts, so give some of these calculations with a grain of salt. But Ive gotten uniformity results with different sizes, so even though this was a bit tricky to figure out, I think I've got it.

Without wasting any time here is the Scholte Drape cut formula (following page 1 and 2):
Measurements:
40 chest, approx. a 36 waist, 17 ¼ natural waist, 9 ¼ scye, 30 ½ length, 7 ¾ half back? and 2 ¼ back angle (more on this measure later).
Chest scale = 20

• 1-2 = depth of scye (in this case 9 ¼)
• 1-3 = waist length (in this case 17 ¼)
• 3-4 = about 8" down
• 1-5 = coat length (30 ½)
• 1-6 = the back angle, (in this case 2 ¼)
• 3-7 = ½"
• 4-8 = ⅜"
• Connect to point 5
• 1-9 = ⅙ scale + ¼"
• 9-10 = ¾"
• 2-11 = There is two ways I have been able found the back. First one is the "direct" way, which is the half back plus ½" for two seams, plus an excess drape of ¾—1 ⅛. Second is the "calculate way" which is ¼ scale plus 4"-5". (In this case it's 9"). This was very tricky to figure out but I think this is how Mr. Scholte did it.
• 12 is squared up from 11, and intersects at line 6.
• 12-13 = 1 ¼" and connect to point 10.
• A = an 1 ¾ up from point 11. Square right ½, and mark ¼ on both sides for a seam step and shape scye run.
• 7-14 = ¼ scale plus 2 ¾ (7 ¾)
• 4-15 = 2-11 minus ¼.
• 5-16 = same distance as 2-11. Shape from 11 to 14 to 15, while "springing" into 16.
• 11-17 = is either ⅔ scale plus 1 ⅛, or ¼ scale plus ½". This was a bit difficult to calculate but this is the best I got.
• 17-18 = ⅙ scale + 1 ⅛, or the distance from 1-9 plus ⅞
• 2-19 = ½ chest plus 3 ½.
• 18-20 = 1-2 plus ¼. Connect to point 12.
• 20-21 is 10-13 minus ¾. Point 21 is also dropped ¾ below line 12-20.
• 22 and 24 are both squared down from point 19 and intersects the waist-line and seat-line
• 14-23 = 1 ⅝, or it could be ½ waist scale plus 4 ⅝.
• 25 = 2" for the gorge line
• 19-27 = 2 ½
• 27-28 = 1 ⅜
• Mark your stand on 20 and connect to 28 for break line.
• 26 from break line = width of revers/lapels.
• 22-29 = 1"
• Connect 29 to 28, and shape down to a point 1" to the left of 30. I'm also assuming that the bottom is dropped about ⅝. The dart is suppressed ¾ (or ⅜ on both sides). The dart for this jacket is 5 ½ from point 23, but I doubt this is how Scholte actually did the darts, and is most likely an "experimental" dart. I suggest to locate the pocket mouth "rock of eye" and connect the underarm dart to a point between 11-17.

For the sleeves on page 2
(I know this sample isn't from Scholte but the sleeves are indistinguishable to the ones from the Duke's coat). After pondering for a while I realized this is straight out of a T&C sleeve draft, so for those who follow their system, you should be familiar with some of the points. I'll be abbreviating Back pitch and front pitch to BP and FP

Sleeve formula (based on page 2):
• 1-2 = BP to scye base (chest line) plus ⅜. Square out from this point
• 3 diagonally from 1 = upper half of armhole (BP to 12, and 20 to FP).
• 3-4 = half 2-3 minus ¼ towards point 3.
• 4-5 = 1-2 plus half 12-BP
Finish the sleeve as shown, and add the sleeve length measure from either points 1 or 5, or you could add a sleeve inseam measure from point 2and 3, your choice of preference.

So that's the drape cut, time for the "more details"

So I first stumbled upon this draft when I was looking through the "Made by Hand" blog archives. At first I only found the first page (as that was the one on the blog), then after doing some more searching online I was able to find the second page. Then when I had the two pages together, I went ahead and drafted the distances that were listed in Wilsons article. After I finished the replica, I then measured each distance to figure out the calculations with my square that Scholte may have used, knowing that the scale was 20. Then I made another draft that was in my chest scale, and it was identical. So yeah, I somewhat "cracked the code" on this cut.

For the "back angle" measurement, I found out this measurement from a video about A&S by the MOMA. It's actually pretty simple. All you have to do is just place the tip of the tape at the nape, and measure down to the slope line of the shoulders. Here's a little illustration for reference



So there you go, a replicated draft of the drape cut. Now I have yet to actually sew the coat and I'll "report back" when I have the opportunity. If there is anyone who knows more about this cut please tell!
(just for comparison with this image from the Elegance in Crisis exhibit)

[Gerry]

Well done! There's some nice additional info, especially about canvas being on the bias (there's a demo later in the vid) in the video that follows. Hitchcock is very much a descendant of the Scholte school:

https://youtu.be/HmoYOrH1M6g?t=355

[SO_tailor]

Well done! There's some nice additional info, especially about canvas being on the bias (there's a demo later in the vid) in the video that follows. Hitchcock is very much a descendant of the Scholte school:

https://youtu.be/HmoYOrH1M6g?t=355

Thank you very much Gerry!

[Gerry]

I'm not sure how authentic this is to the Scholte cut, but Tom Mahon explains how Anderson's formerly did the drape in their sleeves in these two vids (cutting demo in second one):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZUoa3WJHIE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8cGMYzoAM4

[Greger]

In America they did so many variations that the Brits called it prostituted drap. Any fancy that springs into the mind of customer and tailor. Drape can be in the center of chest, by the armholes, wherever there is deliberate drape. The whole thing is art and not rules that deny the play of drape. Nobody owns it.

[Schneiderfrei]

King Wilson is a real favourite of mine, anything he's put his name to I'm interested in, thank you.

This topic is not one I know much about, and I'm looking forward to getting into it.

Great work.

[SO_tailor]

King Wilson is a real favourite of mine, anything he's put his name to I'm interested in, thank you.

This topic is not one I know much about, and I'm looking forward to getting into it.

Great work.

Your welcome Grahm!