Seam Allowances For Chaudhry Denim Jacket

[DOG SALT]

I want to try the Chaudhry denim jacket seen here: http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=242.0
I wanted to be sure of the seam allowances before I begin cutting cloth though. In the draft, it states that "Allowance for 1/2" seams are made everywhere except back and front yokes and panels where seams are to be allowed, see diagram Section B". When looking at the draft it seems that it is not as straightforward as that. The measure for the center back length would not give seam allowance for the neckline, or waistband. For the collar, it says to measure 0-5 and 25-26 to find the length. It doesn't say to measure 1/2" inwards, so would it be safe to assume that there is no seam allowance at the neckline? At the side seam chest line intersection, the arm hole is an unbroken curve, the curves do not begin a seam allowance away from the side seam. Sewing the side seam assuming there is seam allowance would distort the curve of the armhole. So where is there seam allowance in this draft? This is all very confusing to me as a beginner, and I am really not certain of any seam allowances, or lack thereof. Help would be greatly appreciated!

[Schneiderfrei]

I expect the seams are intended to be 1/4 inch.  From memory, that is the usual English seam from that time.

[theresa in tucson]

Seams in jean jackets are most often flat felled but with a 1/2" seam you can get away with serging and doing a fake felled seam.  I would do a quick and dirty mock up to check fit and seam allowances.  For a bit of fun line it with an Alexander Henry Dia de los Muertos print.

[Schneiderfrei]

I would have thought the 1/2 inch allowance would be for final fitting adjustments.  Maybe there is a better idea?

[Greger]

Think the back pieces are on the fold of the cloth. Including the collar.

[Schneiderfrei]

Greger that sounds right.  He he I haven't even looked at it, very sorry. 

[DOG SALT]

Center back length is calculated "full length less waistband". This calculation doesn't include 2 seams, one would be for the neckline, one for attaching the waistband. The center back panel is cut on the fold according to the draft. Center back to center front measure is 1/2 chest + 3 1/2 inches. Assuming the side seam includes seam allowance, this would mean the draft would give 5" of ease. Does this amount of ease seem correct for this type of jacket? It seems like the back side panels, and front yokes and panels do not include seam allowance.

So it seems the bottom edge, back neckline, and yokes and panel seams do not include seam allowance. I'm not sure how I would figure out if the armhole, shoulder, and front neckline have seam allowance or not though, some thoughts from someone more experienced than I would be helpful.

To add a flat felled seam, the allowance per side is 1.5x the finished seam width, and I intend to make this jacket with true flat felled seams. Why put all that work in, and have an ugly seam to show for it? For the fitting, I will make a muslin just using the seam allowances in the draft, and for the final garment add allowances for true flat felled seams.

[Schneiderfrei]

If you hadn't considered this, I would suggest moving on from the draft to produce a finished pattern, so all seams are included on the pattern, and the cloth is cut from the pattern, rather than the draft. 

The felled seams will be cut from the cloth with 0,75 cm allownce/seam on the non-folded side and the folding side left at 1.5cm.  Its a good tailoring exercise and if correctly executed saves a lot of time at the next cutting.

It means you avoid cutting, sewing and cutting again before sewing the final fell.

[TTailor]

The seam allowances on these drafts are difficult to figure out!
The across back measure 0-6 is 1/3 scale plus 2 3/4 inches, so my guess is the armhole has seam allowance.

It is stated twice that 1/2 is allowed everywhere, except where indicated so I would start there and see what you get on paper before cutting any fabric.

[Schneiderfrei]

Excellent idea Terri.

[Greger]

The yoke is a place for adjusting for balance along the bottom edge. Add an inch there for determining correct balance. Another adjustment is lifting or lowering the neck line. This is for shoulder slope. Front and back. Because a seam goes across the shoulder blade down the back extra cloth there to accommodate the shoulder blade. Some protrude out and some less. This is somewhat body coat method. No seam in the back of collar. A tailors coat collar has no seam allowances for canvas. The cloth collar is cut larger and excess is trimmed away. Collars are cut larger for designing while on the person. Each head shape and neck can be varied, collar adjusted to fit that person. The front panels, perhaps they could be wider or narrower front or bottom. A slight curve can add chest shape, which maybe more comfortable.
A seam is two parts. If you press seam allowance on one and the inlay lays flat. This allows for better visual and sliding the inlay up or down or sideways while fitting. After the fittings cut away inlays that are unnecessary.
A fitted garment is more comfortable and lend to better body movements, not to mention, look better.

[Schneiderfrei]

Thanks Greger,

A knowledge of allowances for adjustments is not always obvious.

g

[Greger]

1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32 measurements there are 2/3, 1/3 1/6, 1/12, 1/24 measurements. 1/3 is larger than 1/4. This helps in ease and seam allowances and they usually add a little more. Some pattern makers do use the 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc. Either method is fine.

[DOG SALT]

Thank you for the help, Terri and Greger. Terri, I read your blog post about drafting the Chaudhry jeans, and the issues you encountered with it. It seems this draft is just as straightforward as that one, haha. Thank you for the fitting advice, Greger. When you say "no seam in the back of collar" is this referring to the neck line on the back panel, or the collar piece? And if referring to the back neck line, would the same be for the front neck line? Does the shoulder seam include seam allowance in drafts like this generally, or are there any methods you could recommend to figure out if there is shoulder seam allowance in this draft?

[Greger]

Believe the collar is to be cut on the fold. It probably has seam allowances everywhere else. If you want to experiment cut it wider around three sides. But thread mark where the edge of the pattern for reference.
The shoulder seam should have the seam allowance included.