Vielen Dank!

[Steelmillal]

I wanted to take a brief moment to warmly thank all, especially legacy "usual suspects", whose pearls of technical and artisanal knowledge make/made the following possible>


This is what I started with. He's 6'2", wears a size 13 shoe, and now can tip 240# of lean muscle if he eats right, properly well filling out 46" and needing to be reminded NOT to flex his back to test CB seam stitch integrity>


Recently, one of the firm's partners commented, in an almost admirable tone apparently, that he liked the odd jacket my son wore to lunch. He's being evaluated for employment at a large financial firm and currently has an unimaginable head to toe wardrobe, for a 24-year-old recent Uni Grad, carefully sifted and selected for fit, quality, and sober, professional style that would creatively cover a month of Sundays like a blanket. It does help, zumB, when 3k$ jackets are tossed to thrift stores for one missing cuff button or for seasonal whims related to 'diameter'... meaning there are projects waiting in line to reach the following, sans 'da lid>


Now, for the as yet uninitiated, Dads everywhere often wait a looong, long time to hear our boys admit "Father Knows Best" and there's nothing like the sight of a Proud Papa doing the uninhibited Happy Dance... Iff seen in public, do not be alarmed, we are not having a stroke or seizure. Please, do not call emergency services.  The hoots and hollers and ear to ear grins are the usual symptoms, often followed by uncontrolled leaps into the sky>


Thank you all, so very, very, Very much. Truly! ..Now get back to work! You're burning daylight... 
AL

[hutch--]

Always good to see a proud father and it sounds like you have a chip off the old block there. 👀👍

[Hendrick]

Al, I have 2 boys working on their bachelors'at this very moment; one in physics (my first love though not physical mind you), the other in economics. Trust me; I deeply understand your sincere sentiments!

[Schneiderfrei]

I take my hat off to you, pun intended.

I also have a fella' physics undergrad - though trasnfering to engineering this year, and a youngster finishing off highschool.

They think I'm weird.

[Hendrick]

And the rest of the world is "normai", right?

[Schneiderfrei]

Mainly if it has brand names.

[SO_tailor]

"

*single-breasted Suit has peaked lapels*
"double-breasted revers on a single-breasted coat. A sartorial crime."

Is this a high level tailoring joke I don't get?

[Hendrick]

 Did it in 2004 for ladies...

[Greger]

I wouldn't get in debates about some "rules". Rules are sometimes temporary. History shows that clothes change. Trying to cling to something of the past is losing touch with reality. Tailors have always maneuvered to make whatever the best. Don't want to jump the game and find out the race is somewhere else. Style is rather conservative and when change seems to be coming conservative Tailors are very careful. You can lose major customers if you are not. Major customers bring in consistent money and they depend upon your judgment. What many, today, in their 40s and 50s and younger, don't seem to know is that not every suit they see a picture from the past is Style, but some are fashions. A number of times men who wore business suits to work, 30 - 40 year olds, were sent home because the suit was fashion. They would change into a business suits and go back to work. Reading the men's forums about suits these younger men don't know. They are trying to copy the past. Business is work and after work is fashions. But, that's not the whole story either. If the company pays the fee for golf club, yatch club and others your still working. And you have to dress appropriately. White Tie, Black Tie, business suits and maybe fashions included sometimes. Some of the tailor companies today tell rubbish. They don't seem agile anymore. Nor are they connected to culture. They are just making up rules to please themselves. American and British cultures are not the same. A good tailor gives advice to the appropriate culture they are making for. My grandfather went through the body suits to lounge suits change. This is a major change. When was the last time you went to the bank to get a $40 million loan wearing a frock coat? The lounge coats have been around long before I was born. It is so normal. I don't think most people can comprehend the major change that it was. Body coats are very different. Don't get hung up on rules. They are temporary. Tailors have always had to go with the future, or get left in the dust of history.

[Hendrick]

I agree that change keeps the motor running (as it should!). There are no real rules, just business codes. Think about meeting your architect for the first time and he's wearing Balenciaga sneakers and an Acne funny face sweatshirt. So o.k., hes's a creative, right? Now immagine the same on you new financial advisor... My personal problem with the DB lapel on a SB coat is that it is too short to have the substance it needs, that is why I used a single button on the women's jacket; it gives the lapel more stretch...

[Greger]

In the 60s what banker would be wearing DB lapel on a SB coat? That would be fashion. A fun coat. Today, it would easily pass.
A based coat every seam, pocket, collar design, shoulder dimensions, etc can be changed. Can't say that for Mass-production.
Schneider, your children do not know what fashion is. Nor, how to get the best from it.

[SO_tailor]

"

*single-breasted Suit has peaked lapels*
"double-breasted revers on a single-breasted coat. A sartorial crime."

Is this a high level tailoring joke I don't get?

I just realized that this image was making fun of the advert,  sorry guys .

[SO_tailor]

I agree that change keeps the motor running (as it should!). There are no real rules, just business codes. Think about meeting your architect for the first time and he's wearing Balenciaga sneakers and an Acne funny face sweatshirt. So o.k., hes's a creative, right? Now immagine the same on you new financial advisor... My personal problem with the DB lapel on a SB coat is that it is too short to have the substance it needs, that is why I used a single button on the women's jacket; it gives the lapel more stretch...

IMO I think DB lapels on a SB are good for slim Jim's who want to look more athletic, the peak helps give the illusion of that V shape.

[Hendrick]

Absolutely; when long enough, nothing does that better. But somehow, peak lapels always remind me of more formal styles like dinner jackets and tailcoats... I have a book somewhere that says that during the jazz age, late 20s or about, peak lapels were adapted by the very daring into daywear. For some time, during the80s, japanese menswear (Matsuda, Takeo Kikuchi, Yohji Yamamoto etc.) designers were hugely influenced by that style period with some interesting results (not to mention the excessive use of rayons, acethates and the like!)

[Schneiderfrei]

And peak lapels always for a blazer.