The Mysteries of Glue Baste Revealed

[Gerry]

This came up in a previous thread discussing Tailor Manabe. I've seen tailors across the Far East use glue to baste their work. Typically when taping coats, but other places too. This video by Silvio Chan shows a clever application for such glue; and at the end he shows the process of making it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmuIAtkCqfw

Personally, I'll stick to using thread, but interesting nonetheless. Full range of videos, with subtitles, on how to make a coat here (also worth scrolling down for general sewing stuff - I've picked up some great tips/ideas in the past):

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_cMRUsc0jnhel17xAn8j8Q/videos

[Greger]

Wonder how long the glue stays? Glue makes rigidness instead of flexible.

[Gerry]

Wonder how long the glue stays? Glue makes rigidness instead of flexible.

I used to think they were using some synthetic, permanent thermoset glue. However, this clearly isn't the case if the only ingredients are flour and alum. Plus, whenever I've seen this method used tailors then either machine or hand stitch whatever has been glued. It's obviously only intended as a baste.

You're right about creating rigidity. I've watched this whole series on coat making, so far (instalments are still being uploaded regularly), and in some procedures the glue is applied to cloth then allowed to dry. In these cases it appears that it's being used as an alternative to starch, to stiffen cloth.

[Gerry]

It's worth watching the whole series to see differences in approach compared to European tailoring. The 'feathering' of tape is interesting. Tape is cut on grain and warp threads pulled to leave an edge consisting of loose weft threads.

Again, I've seen tailors across the Far East doing this and I can see pros and cons to this method. There's a clear delineation within the tape as to where the seam line is: only threads get sewn into the seam of facings while the body of tape is secured to the canvas. It would make sense to glue the tape in this instance, because (I should imagine) those weft threads are going to bunch/move out of position when under the foot. Hence the glue?

With thick cloth the feathering is going to reduce bulk at the seam. But I don't see any advantage with thinner cloth. Quite the reverse. One of the advantages of taping is that it adds 'definition' to an edge: a little stiffness. Perhaps the glue does this too? (I can't imagine it being permanent though).

Furthermore, the seam is then pressed over the canvas and directly sewn to it. This defeats the object of using tape, surely? Directly anchoring the cloth to canvas, as opposed to leaving the canvas to 'float' (using tape as a bridge between two materials with different properties in terms of flex) can only stress the cloth?

I'm not a coat maker, so I'm just theorising about all this.

[Gerry]

This is the video showing the 'feathered' taping:

https://youtu.be/T_an25mCoSg

[pfaff260]

I've been tought to use this kind of glue if basting is impossible. Not very efficient, but it works and it washes out. Maybe his does to, considering he handsews the glued spots?

[Hendrick]

Perfax, over a hundred years old, is a wallpaper glue that is perfectly stainless on textiles. It comes in powder form and can be mixed in any concentration and is easy to bring on with a small stout brush. I used lots of it may years ago when making, for instance, strapless corsages for strapless dresses that I interlined with linnen "scrimming", a coarse linnen that was used for covering walls and such. I also cut it in tape that I pressed on  seams with the same glue and loosely overcast later. After steaming it, it gradually becomes gentler... For dressmaking, I like to use a light cotton "battiste" lining. So the "thinner" (more diluted) formula works perfect to press all the edges together for edge to edge lining before pick stitching it to the part.  (not to mention it looks like a million dollar handjob)

[Gerry]

Excellent info Hendrick. The term "Million Dollar Handjob" has different connotations to native English speakers, but I understood your intent! 

[Schneiderfrei]

 

[Steelmillal]

...been wondering where semi-contextually this would almost fit in. Thx Hendrik/Gerry..


My first thought of using glue was solvents. Stoddard fluid was one of the earliest dry-cleaning solvent in the states. I used it for power hydraulics on a project once. Won't win you much as bar bet, but still...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joshua_C._Stoddard

[Hendrick]

Thank you all... I love using sideways references; keeps the entourage awake and the interpretation is all theirs!

Cheers, Hendrick

[Gerry]

A dedicated video on the subject, again courtesy of Master Chan:

https://youtu.be/jJ2R2RTqrZA