Drafting Bespoke Trousers

[peterle]

I totally agree.

Life is too short for not being eccentric.

[Schneiderfrei]

Yep

[Steelmillal]

I've found the older I've gotten, the more eccentric hell raising I can get away with in public. People just chalk it up as age related. FYI make sure your kids know "the secret phrase" so they don't haul you off to a home before it's time

[Hendrick]

Good point! I'm well past the age of bothering with people staring at me these days... But hey, I've worn a long Gaultier "men's skirt" in the eighties... Nowadays "style" is a choice between different sneakers...

[pfaff260]

Good point! I'm well past the age of bothering with people staring at me these days... But hey, I've worn a long Gaultier "men's skirt" in the eighties... Nowadays "style" is a choice between different sneakers...

I loved those men skirts from Gaultier. Later on i made myself his lady Di smoking he wore to the MTV awards from his haute couture for men collection. He did such marvelous things for men's fashion.

[Hendrick]

Not to mention his work for Hermes...

[SO_tailor]

The Germans work the front/top trouser from the side-line and the back trouser is constructed from the center-line.

I know I'm late to this but that's interesting, because I did draft my first trousers based on Sven Jungclaus's book, and the back parts were drafted by the center line of the fronts. It definitely is more easier to draw when your doing it on the center. Although on the topic of the drafting of the fronts being on the sides, I don't believe it's exclusive to Germany, as most cutting books I've read have the foreparts drafted on the side and not the center.

[Hendrick]

You mean the cemter top part or the crease?

[SO_tailor]

You mean the cemter top part or the crease?

The Crease

[Hendrick]

I rarely draft mens' trousers. I have Sven Jungclaus' books, but only flipped them through. Interestingly, I have a french method (www.dpstudio-fashion.com) for wopmen's drafting (3 books...) that start the setup of trouser drafts from the center leg and the backleg is drafted as an overlay. I was taught the same method 45 years ago... 

[SO_tailor]

I rarely draft mens' trousers. I have Sven Jungclaus' books, but only flipped them through. Interestingly, I have a french method (www.dpstudio-fashion.com) for wopmen's drafting (3 books...) that start the setup of trouser drafts from the center leg and the backleg is drafted as an overlay. I was taught the same method 45 years ago... 

That's interesting Hendrick, I'll definitely try out that French method at some point. I've never actually tried drafting any womenswear, as I'm more engaged in men's tailoring (as I am a male myself), but I will consider doing some women's tailoring at some point in the future.

[Schneiderfrei]

I've never actually tried drafting any womenswear, as I'm more engaged in men's tailoring (as I am a male myself), but I will consider doing some women's tailoring at some point in the future.

Women's clothing must necessarily be far more adaptive than men's.  It is very well worth looking through women's drafting books, e.g. Hofenbitzer, to see some brilliant solutions for fitting problems.

[SO_tailor]

Thanks (:

[Hendrick]

Indeed,Schneiderfrei. I also have Hofenbitzers books... They are extremely logic and comprehensive, I keep going back to the lately...

[Schneiderfrei]

I thank posaune for sharing those, und Gott sei dank, one in English is avalable.