Pant Glutes Contour

[Vanitii]

Good Afternoon

I'm trying to figure out what I can do to contour a mans backside, give it a bit of lift, give the illusion and/or support to make it as flattering/as big as possible. I've tried reading different fitting pages and trouser drafting but as its such a specific look, I'm not having much luck. Can anybody recommend reading material or explain what techniques can achieve this.

Much appreciated.

[Schneiderfrei]

This is a very old question.  Unless you have the strength of cotton denim or modern fabrics, thereis not much you can do to alter the cut to effectively lift the seat contour.

There is a discussion on this matter in the old forum.  It seems to be a measure that exists in the industrial realm, but the cut for this kind of silhouette will be very different from a draft trouser pattern.

[Gerry]

With low-rise trousers I treat the centre-back seam as a third dart. It shapes the seam into the small of the back so that there isn't as much gapping there. Whatever allowance you've made for two darts, divide it by three. The 'dart' at the CB will be the same depth as the others.

As for a more fitted, tighter look, use less ease across the back and reinforce the centre-back seam. Ready-to-wear manufacturers typically flat-fell the seam. You could stay it with tape, instead. Whatever you do, it's also an idea to double-stitch the tops of the side seams down to the crotch line: all body seams will be under more stress. As mentioned, not suitable for a lot of the cloth that tailors use (unless it's tightly woven).

As for making the backside look bigger. Sew in some shoulder pads (joke).

[Gerry]

Actually, the shoulder pads things has been done (sort of). See David Sedaris' short story, "Better the Glasses Than Sweaty Fake Asses" (not recommended).

[Hendrick]

I would check around the "unisex era" of patternmaking; women's and men's trousers (especially denim and slacks) were much more similar than these days... If you ggle "Landlubber advertising 70s" you will get the idea. Also not a bad idea s to try and find a vintage Mccals or similar pattern from that vintage; the drafts are totaly different and extremely flat-fronted.

Cheers, Hendrick

[Steelmillal]

"..Sweaty Fake Asses".

Just not something I ever thought I'd read here... ...

[Schneiderfrei]

That was brilliant, and so are the rest. Many thanks Hendrick.

G

[Gerry]

The inclusion of a yoke is yet another possibility for shaping. Again, if you thought of the sides as small darts, that should help pull up the seat. It's one of those things where I'd pin a block toile to shape it, then start converting tucks and pinches into seams.

All this gets away from the traditional tailored look, however. At best, it's 'smart casual'.

[Schneiderfrei]

Actually, I should have said Many thanks Gerry, but I was sick with covid and had a foggy head.  I hope my outburst makes sense now.  The short story was just great.

I think the yoke is pretty much required, if you are proposing to hoist up flesh as it were.

G

[Gerry]

I was sick with covid and had a foggy head. 

That's rough. Hoping you feel better soon!

[Steelmillal]

Trust you over the worst of it G. Feel better!!

[Schneiderfrei]

Thank you all for your good wishes.  I am a lot better, though my experience of the sickness was nasty.

G

[Greger]

There is a traditional kind of vaccine out now, or soon will be, maybe it will actually work.

[Steelmillal]

Thx Gregor. After all the admitted lies, deceptions, and deaths that even now seem to be increasing worldwide, the short answerer is "no", the long answer is "oh, hell no!".


We've all done real well to keep politics out, but it seems "gub'ment" just ain't workin' for the people anymore, if they ever did at the start.

Below pulled from https://ovoodocorvo.blogspot.com/2022/07/europes-right-wing-piggybacks-on-dutch.html at the bottom. The last paragraph chilled my blood in that it reads like 'the ministry' is above all the fray and is tolerating the peasants and plebes...

""Almost half of people in the Netherlands support the protests, which are morphing into a broader movement within the Netherlands too.

"It's kind of an anti-establishment protest," Zaslove said, adding that some of its backers believe "the state is not for the people."

A spokesperson for the Dutch agriculture ministry said: "This is not the way to get ahead, we have to find a way forward together. The Dutch Cabinet wishes to cooperate with all relevant parties to shape the sustainable future for agriculture.""

And there's this: youtube.com/watch?v=KEPWgMXut_8

Plus, the US congress just spent a trillion dollars again "on the fly" without debate or a public comment period on partisan policy programs!?! And I can't get traditional tailoring supplies that have a zero petrochemical content?!? Something is askew, y'all. Na'h, we're keepin' a sharp eye out, staying low, and trying to know personally our butcher, baker, and candlestick maker, etc.


Sorry for rant. At first glance I thought Gregor found the 'butt brassiere' answer. Not sure if photos would be needed tho..  Butt dimples this early, before coffee, just ain;t done...

"cheeky" clean joke... ... get it?

[Gerry]

Please everyone, we don't need to see 'butt brassiere' cleavage snaps!