Cutting of a four button sack?

[Johnnyincubbias]

Does anyone know how to adapt a sack coat pattern to remove the side body and just have a single side seam? Also has anyone done princess seams on mens coats and kept the shaping of the cut  rather than inadvertently adding a womens shape to the front or back?

[peterle]

The older Sack coat patterns don't have an extra sidebody, the front seam is just a dart from the armhole downwards.
Of course you can do a princess seam on a lounge coat without shaping the seam, it's more a decorative seam then. Very fashionable in the 70s.

[Steelmillal]

https://web.archive.org/web/20150922172012/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2182
Might help.

[Gerry]

A Princess Seam taken from the arm rather than the shoulder looks a little better on men IMO. More of a combination of darts (top of seam picks up slack under the arm); and looks wise, it's like an elongation of the normal front dart, without being too obvious. Example here (albeit for a waistcoat):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-V0VrBjwT5k

[Steelmillal]

few more from Vincent





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[TTailor]

For some reason I am not seeing the link In Gerry's post.
If I quote him as if to reply I see the link.

Anyone else have the same issue?

[Gerry]

For some reason I am not seeing the link In Gerry's post.
If I quote him as if to reply I see the link.

Anyone else have the same issue?

Could be a browser issue? if anyone else has problems, search youtube for "Een double breasted 4×2 waistcoat, lets have a look."

[Steelmillal]

Came up my laptop.
youtu.be/-V0VrBjwT5k

[Greger]

Poulin's book has a pattern without a side piece.

[Hendrick]

Try to get yr hands on "Drafting cotton garments and Mackinaws" by Harry Simons, a fun collection of work frocks and sack coats and the like from around 1915. Send me a pm and I can help you out...

cheerio, Hendrick

[pfaff260]

https://ia600602.us.archive.org/18/items/draftingcottonga00simo/draftingcottonga00simo.pdf

Love the archive!

[Steelmillal]

archive bad, very bad... the voices made me get terabyte drives last year.... oh wait, 'searches' not 'voices'..

[Schneiderfrei]

Jeeepers I though I had trolled a massive amount off there, before it even shut down! But not terabytes worth.

[Steelmillal]

I knew I was in trouble with tailoring data started displacing engineering data in the drives. Photos and old book pdfs ad up quickly.    That and I found old F1 and B&W films. Background white noise while pad stitching. Besides, new drives are cheap finally. If I land a particular project, that will 'balance' it out some, ...maybe 

[Schneiderfrei]

I knew I was in trouble with tailoring data started displacing engineering data in the drives.