Winter weight tweeds

[Steelmillal]

I recently learned of another weaver that has some nice looking stuff.

https://www.instagram.com/jack_at_farnhill_and_hirst/

Don't know 'em, don't owe 'em, but another book is always useful for to hook customers.

I still don't understand the whole Eu mandate to spray teflon on everything, but that's dupont getting theirs's in, I guess.

[Steelmillal]

The start of this thread originated from a comment by The Frank Shattuck extolling praise upon Knockando tweeds, and rightly so. Since two elections ago, I saw a need for heavier cloth to better weather the cold storms that seem to be hitting the global community now in the form of continued energy interruptions. I recall a letter written from Victorian Vienna in which the woman stated she had TWO pairs of underwear on as it was so cold. Better to be too warm than too cold.


Anyway, we'll start by having a look at Dobcross looms, one example of which Knockando https://www.kwc.co.uk/ currently uses.. The Dobcross factory site has been razed for new housing flats, but at least it was captured on video before being scrapped clean. There are a large number of functioning Dobcross projectile looms in operation in the UK, which is a part of my planned EU trip to document. Fool Millwrights do such things, so we aren't to only ones who remember...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Q3MRZy3zNk

Here's something else. https://www.derelictplaces.co.uk/threads/dobcross-loom-works-diggle-saddleworth-pic-heavy.20106/


Also, for American heritage, Draper Looms, is another foundational company that brought so much change around the world. It has also been recently scrapped clean to dirt. However, much data and video exists.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btIAaeOEpKM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0vxIo0sFS0

https://www.telegram.com/story/business/2020/12/06/draper-mill-demolition-worcester-developer-raze-hopedale-complex/3822884001/

In America we have something called Livestock Conservancy and a program called "Shave 'Em to Save 'Em.  https://livestockconservancy.org/get-involved/shave-em-to-save-em/ 
Gone means gone, Y'all, so support local and heritage manufacturing while you can. More to follow...

[Steelmillal]

It's hard to think about sporting tweeds when 100% humidity joins 90degF daylight temps, but snow will blow soon enough and wool depth keeps it at bay.

Here's something lost and forgotten unless you're from the nearby hills








IN 1901, Edith Vanderbilt established something called Vanderbilt Industries to preserve what was then vanishing 'technology". It later was sold and became https://www.grovewood.com/ and still survives today.

I have family in the area and plan a trip yet this Summer, to see the museum and also see the best bike builder I ever met who retired to Ashville. The 'horse sense' photo is fun.

[Steelmillal]

I am waiting to hear back from someone which I rate as really encouraging news for the industry. But to continue, this should be resurrected.

https://web.archive.org/web/20150910153000/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=544

Below is a small part of what I found a couple of years ago when I first started researching and planning my trip.

https://www.28dayslater.co.uk/threads/exploring-heather-mills.36864/
https://flickr.com/photos/cycleologist/sets/72157613058337667/

It's another site sadly gone, but the photos document it well. What we wouldn't give for the front-end equipment for fiber treatment. Tragic stuff, but better news soon...

I have the direct links that I will post later, but the college has preserved much in their archive thankfully.
https://www.hw.ac.uk/tex/study/campus/galashiels.htm

[Steelmillal]

Tapping on this thread to continue. Waiting on emails. The photo is a library archive photo from South Carolina and is of a sanding operation for projectile looms large enough likely to have been used in the carpet industry. We have a few that large.

Found when running down parts and a company sadly long gone

[Hendrick]

In the north and northeast of France there is a lot going on in textiles again. Mills are reopening... I will post some links later!

Cheers, Hendrick

[Steelmillal]

This is history more than current, obviously. Good winter reading and further proof archyve so very bad.
https://archive.org/details/officialamerican1922bost

For those with too much time there's
https://archive.org/search.php?query=1922+textile+world&page=1
Don't get your hopes up, though, to reproduce what's within. Industrial breeding has reduced raw fleece supply 'to maybe one trailer load in the country' of the good schtuff, a guy told me a few years ago. You could still do it, but could you sell it?!$ when poly loft is warmer and produced by psi/roll speed v. micron/thread count.

And for white noise since I saw his obit in last wknds FT
https://archive.org/details/pharoah-sanders-studio-104-paris-1975-ortf
seems paris portland archyve is all live over the airwaves capture so fair use. cheers!

...more to follow...