Rotated Sleeve

[TTailor]

In the second video, he also mentions that over 50 hours go into the standard two piece to get to the second fitting.
Just to reference the other thread. So finishing is still needed after the second fitting.
For his four piece shooting suit it is in excess of 80 hours.

[Gerry]

In all fairness Terri, the British take a lot of tea breaks.

[TTailor]

Tea breaks are essential!

[Schneiderfrei]

Terri is completely correct.

G

[Greger]

How many tea breaks do they need?

[Gerry]

The fact is, rents in Savile Row (and much of the West End) are ridiculously high. Which is why the suits cost so much. I can't help feeling that the Row exaggerate the amount of hours they take to justify said high prices; and dissuade customers from looking elsewhere (where in reality they can often find the same quality but a little cheaper).

[Petruchio]

The fact is, rents in Savile Row (and much of the West End) are ridiculously high. Which is why the suits cost so much. I can't help feeling that the Row exaggerate the amount of hours they take to justify said high prices; and dissuade customers from looking elsewhere (where in reality they can often find the same quality but a little cheaper).

I think thats a general issue in the industry. I remember the shirt company "100 hands" claiming they need 35 hours for a shirt with 45 minutes for each buttonhole. Although the do make great shirts and the handwork is wonderful, those claims just sound highly exaggerated (I timed my handmade buttonholes with 7-10 minutes each, depending on the thread). Might be the same with tailoring company, some viennese Tailors claim up to 80 hours for a three piece suit.

[Gerry]

They're either exaggerating, or they watch a lot of porn at work.

[Hendrick]

My dad told me 60 hrs, including "song and dance"(fitting and correction) should do it for a two piece suit.

[Steelmillal]

65 hours has been in my mind, but I can't find where I read it or any of the time charts I used to have. And that's purely inexperience talking.

[Hendrick]

Few tea breaks...

[Steelmillal]

...Y'all gotta funny way of spelling 'coffee'... But I do drink that see-through-stuff when I need a caffeine change to shock the system, like detoxing 

[Der Zuschneider]

first view  the plaid of the sleeve is upside down
Thanks for the old C&T excerpt.

Now measuring the shoulder slope. I do it with my Ipad, there is an app out there. But: with ladies I don´t know if you can use it. I fear the body shoulder slope you measure is an result from pattern back shoulder slope and pattern front shoulder slope.
If I measure a slope about 21° it maybe that I have 19° in front of the pattern because of my bust and 23 ° in back which results in 19+23= 42/2 = 21 cm. If I draft a armhole in front for a 21 slope maybe it will gape?

I have found a good discription for rotating the sleeve in the book : Maatwerk passvorm correcties written by Rianet Knevel. I'll do a scan later.
lg
posaune

What app are you using with your ipad? I want to try that too.

[Der Zuschneider]

In the second video, he also mentions that over 50 hours go into the standard two piece to get to the second fitting.
Just to reference the other thread. So finishing is still needed after the second fitting.
For his four piece shooting suit it is in excess of 80 hours.

Where can I watch the movies?

[Gerry]

Posted earlier in the thread 

https://youtu.be/N88IWPf0YeA?t=1424

https://youtu.be/onjj4bPBkm4?t=850

From this series:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLNeFpbTnJYLwZ-rYSLedE7ZN-UiyYlEKz