Duke of Windsor's Cut

[Gerry]

Stumbled across the following vid the other day. At around the 2:40 mark you can see the old Anderson and Sheppard pattern for the Prince of Wales/Duke of Windsor. Note how straight the centre back seam is. Also the lack of shaping on the front. One can see how this would create the boxy chest/back, leading to the 'drape cut' (it effectively hangs off the shoulders) mentioned in the vid.

https://youtu.be/BLMk2W3GQA0?t=160

More on the Scholte cut in this vid, particularly around 3:30 mark, and later at about the 23 min mark:

https://youtu.be/HmoYOrH1M6g?t=206

Just thought some of you might be interested. 

[Greger]

The Scholte coat in this video shows drape in the center chest. Anderson puts it at the side in front of the armhole.
Niether of these two came from England. Anderson came from Sweden. He hired mostly swedes because they knew how to make the loose coat (Swedish coat). These Swedish tailors were easier to teach how to make the drape coat he wanted then retraining English tailors. Not everything on Saville Row is English origin. Anderson would have had to start at the age of five or younger to become a tailor in Sweden back then. Otherwise he would have been rejected. He went to England as a journeyman tailor.
The video shows that drape can be achieved a number of ways.

[jruley]

Frederick Croonborg's 1907 "Blue Book of Men's Tailoring" includes a section on "exaggeration" which looks like an early attempt at "drape".

See pp 26-27:

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/items/grandeditionofsu00croo/grandeditionofsu00croo.pdf

Croonborg sounds like a Swedish name so it would be interesting to know if there was any connection between him and Anderson.