Proeminent blade and balance issues

[Alx190]

Hello guys, i have a problem with my back of the jacket because of my body position and construction.I want to know what kind of alteration should be done in order to remove that wrinkles and if you know any good book about fitting issues and how to fix  them.

Thnak you!

[posaune]

oh well I see a rounded back which needs more length : I hope this is not good fabric! You have to open the back. And look at your shoulders:  highest Point is forward maybe 2-3 cm. And your bum is going to the front.
So it will be some work for you.
lg
posaune

[TTailor]

As Posaune says, you need more length in the upper back.

Balance measurements are needed here. Put a string or elastic around the waist and get someone to take measurements. I would take a measurement from neck point down to front waist at the string and neck point to back waist at the string. Another set of measurements taken vertically a couple inches away from the neck.
Compare to your pattern. Adjust the pattern. You will have to remove the back jacket piece, and see if your alteration can be placed on the already cut panel. Much will depend on inlays and whether you left enough.

An alternative which will illustrate this visually is to cut the back panel in a piece of muslin, sew it up as you have here. Put it on. Mark the most prominent area of the blade then make a cut horizontally across the back.
Cut from the middle back toward the CB seam and towards the armhole but not through them unless necessary. See how much opens up.

First step is to figure how much needs to be added, so start with either (or both) option then I am sure help is available to instruct how to alter the pattern.

[peterle]

For safety I would also take an across back measurment, just to see, wether the back needs additional width also.

When you intend to install shoulder pads, be sure to install them yet when doing the fittings, otherwise the results are not reliable.

[Greger]

Might want to look at Clarence Poulins book.

[Alx190]

Thank you for your  suggestions. i would like to ask you if you think this alteration  from the image could help me, because if i put some pins on that wrinkles the pattern will look like this.My pattern it s not made for having shoulder pads.

[spookietoo]

I'm sure one of the professionals will be along to get more specific, but right off, the pattern change you've indicated moves your shoulder seam back even further when you actually need to move it forward rather substantially as you have a forward shoulder.

As I was learning what alterations I needed to do, I found it very helpful to study human posture in order to determine how I deviate from "the norm". Taking photos in a figure fitting garment from direct front, back and each side with my phone really helped me to understand why I was having issues. My phone is still my best fitting tool.

Peterle also suggested that perhaps the back width of your jacket as its cut may not be wide enough. Something to consider.



Its helpful when asking for fitting advice to post all four views, front, back and both sides.

[posaune]

https://www.sewessential.co.uk/blog/make-high-round-back-forward-shoulder-adjustment/

look here it is a very simplified method. But it may help to understand the alteration, but sadly not the balance issues. Mostly is needed front pattern alteration.  You do it just reverse, you overlapp the cut the amount you opened in back.  But afterwards at front you must true the lapel and lapel line.
lg
posaune

[peterle]

When you applicate this to the paper pattern, you will have a dart at the red triangle. I´m sure you don´t want a dart there.

As Posaune and TTailor already said, the first thing to do is to increase the back balance (wich is the vertical distance from the back neckhole to the horizontal armhole line). I´m sure you´ll find several posts in the forum about this topic.
Another method to increase the back balance when fitting is to open the back side seams, shift the back upwards relatively to the side bodies and resew or pin them. This is a trial and error method, I would start with 3cm in your case.

[Greger]

Another book, or books, are Standley Hostek's. Your present project, his coat book, would be of some help. He explains some about fitting in it. http://stanleyhostek.com/

Something about round.  Round is a curve, which is longer than straight. In clothes making it usually includes vertical and horizontal.

[Alx190]

Thank you guys, this photo was an  old one, i found it on my phone and i put it here because it was one of the biggest problem. After a  while and a lot of fittings and hours spent in front of the mirror i succeded to get a better result and i will show you in the next photos. Now my pattern looks better, i don t know if the alteration i ve done was a good one but for the jacket from this photo was working.  Last days i cut a new jacket but i use different fabric, and the fitting it s not the same. Don t take into consideration the pockets, i have to change the position, the fabric i used for this jacket is linen.

[TTailor]

I will just talk about the linen jacket.
What I see-
Well you can see that you have a very prominent blade, more on the left than the right and generally a full upper back.
There is also excess length showing at centre back and under the left arm and drags at the waist.

I do not have time today  to post a lot of information but I will give you a photo from a book I have that may help, and check back in later.

Linen will not shrink in the way wool does, so you will be limited in handling it. In your case I would consider a shoulder dart.