More Casual Jacket Fun

[jruley]

Some may recall the jacket which resulted from this thread in 2016:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,361.90.html

Eight years later the jacket is doing fine, but I've put on a little weight and it is uncomfortable to button. I updated the pattern last year for a little more room in the waist and also an overall looser fit (increased width but not length).  I also used a front zipper without removing the button stand, which gave some slack in the chest.  That resulted in a nice corduroy version (not shown) which I've gotten a lot of use out of since.

The latest version (shown here) uses the same pattern, but is made of a heavy woolen overcoating remnant.  I'm looking forward to breaking it in this winter.





I really like this style for spring and fall wear.  With the short tail and the "action back" it's very convenient for driving.  But on really cold days, I think I would like something longer, and maybe with hand warmer pockets.

I have some more overcoating, in a color called "Garter Blue", a little lighter shade than navy.  I'm thinking of making another one, long enough to cover the butt - I already have a knee length coat.

I could probably just extend this pattern and come up with something usable, but I'm interested in other ideas.  Don't think I need the pleated back and belt, and the separate skirt piece under the belt might be troublesome if made longer.

Thinking about trying the "Viennese seam" back style shown here:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,1557.0.html

I would like the result to be form following, but not skin tight.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jim

[Gerry]

If you click on the photo it will expand for a better view. Second from right is a similar type of jacket, but full length. No front darts, so it's not going to be overly fitted. I'm guessing Amies would have called it a ghillie collar.

https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-hardy-amies-mens-fashion-1962-mens-fashions-designed-by-hardy-amies-19538701.html

I intend to make this jacket in the new year (I love the look). I even committed to buying some Melton the other week (ouch it was pricey!), so I have to make it now.

[jruley]

I like that look as well.  Maybe a little looser, and just a little longer; and I'll probably go with a zipper just for practicality.  Maybe I can learn how to do a concealed one...

This is the cloth I have, bought many years ago for historical reenactment use.  It's from Hainsworth's "overcoating" line.

[Gerry]

The fronts and the sleeves are more elegantly done on the Amies coat, but it's basically a donkey jacket minus the PVC shoulder patches. 

If you made the hems straight, rather than the fronts sloping away, it would probably give you the illusion of length that you are after.

Google around for 'Melton chore/donkey jacket' and you'll see plenty of modern interpretations of The look.

[Gerry]

This sort of thing:

https://communityclothing.co.uk/products/arthur-jacket

https://www.drakes.com/products/navy-melton-wool-donkey-jacket

[jruley]

I think that style would flatter a man with a strong chest and broad shoulders.  That doesn't describe me, so I want to build in some shape.  A little waist suppression helps hide my love handles.

[jruley]

OK - here is my first draft of a body pattern.  Fronts are extensions of my existing casual jacket pattern.  Backs developed from the "Viennese seam" manipulation to eliminate the separate yoke.

Darts in the back are just for reference, to remind me how much to ease and shrink.





Other than the uneven hem, does anyone see an obvious problem at this point?

[jruley]

I made a toile out of lightweight canvas drill.  Here I am wearing it buttoned:

[jruley]

And here unbuttoned:









I know the hem will have to be levelled.  What does everyone think of how it hangs?