Waistcoat Inlays - Foreparts and darts.

[lngn2]

I'm in the process of doing a first fitting on a new waistcoat pattern and have run in to a challenge, namely that I need to increase the length by around 1.5".

All the old books show an inlay allowed at the bottom of the forepart only, though I've also allowed an inlay at the shoulder. The waistcoat has a front dart which finished at the bottom of the current front edge. If I want to use the bottom inlay, do I drop the dart proportionately, or simply extend it in to the inlay? Obviously dropping at the shoulder is the easier plan, but this will only give me ~1" of the 1.5" required.

Any thoughts gratefully received. Thanks.

[Greger]

Probably a bit of both.
When trying something new don't cut the darts. At the fitting you can determine the best location, then cut.

[TTailor]

Did you leave enough inlay at the underarm?
If you lengthen from the shoulder, will you want or need  to keep the existing underarm/scye line level?

It all depends on where or why the length is needed.