Mueller CB cut

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I have worked (or have worked through) every general pattern drafting system (Aldrich, Armstrong, Bunka etc) since being in school where I learnt hybridized versions that never completely stuck (and was geared towards historical costuming — I produce contemporary women's wear now) but recently decided to try out Mueller & Sohn blocks ... and love it!

However, this CB line confuses me. I do not speak German, so I have the translated English "blouses and dresses" book. Have done the basic and blouse block. You taper in the CB line ~2cm but use it as your straight of grain / cut on fold??? I did that (so no cb seam) and there were drag lines in back armhole that when I remade blocks / fit again with no CB tapering were improved. I assumed it was because the fabric was off grain from the CB line being not right angle to chest/waist line.

I was prepared to omit this tapering / shaping in CB line permanently but am wondering if I'm ... just missing something on how it functions? How are you to use this tapered CB without a CB seam? Am I just overthinking it? Help me make sense of it if M & Sohn is system you are very familiar with!

[LindyBalboa]

1) can you share some pictures so we know what you are talking about?

2) Mueller and Sohn are pretty good about responding to email questions.

[posaune]

The CB Line is for fitted garments, it is called Rückeneinstellung. The measures there (going in 2 cm at waist) are not chisseled in stone. It depends on your figure. It helps with the position of teh back armhole"tip" You are right -if you want the fit you must do a CB seam.  But you can connect the back neckpoint with a straight line to the back hip point and going further down. Then you can cut on fold. But re-arrange the lower pattern to straight lines. It will give you a bit more length over the back and a bit more back waist. But this is allright with a more relaxed fit.
lg
posaune

[Greger]

Don't know if you are writing about shirt or coat and what kind of cloth. Tailors have changed coat pattern some (shoulder, scye, probably side seam and hem). They also did a lot of iron work of shrinking and stretching.
There are pictures of coats with no center seam floating around on the internet. At least some years ago there were.