1960s Shirt Draft by Ciraci

[Schneiderfrei]

Here are the images that were posted on Cutter and Tailor forum several years ago by Schneidergott.

If anyone can explain the method for determining the Semiamiezza Dorso, I would be very grateful.

G

[peterle]

It´s called semiampiezza dorso and means halfwidth of the back. In the draft instructions it reappears in 5-8 as "oppure la misura semidorso" wich translates " or the measurement  of the half back.

Both mean the back width. (21cm would also be the usual calculated back width for a 100cm chest).

[Schneiderfrei]

The problem though, is how do you calculate this for other sizes.  There is no included formula.

It could be a direct measurement, but that is not specified either.

[Schneiderfrei]

Here it is in English

Private Study Only

Translation performed by me.  Any problems please comment below.



DATA FOR THE PROPORTION OF NECK TO THE SHIRT

The following rule applies for the proportion of the neck to the shirt.

The rule subtracts the decimal fraction (1/10) of the thorax from the measurement of the half thorax, example: the half thorax 50 cm. then decimal fraction is 10.0 cm. (i.e. Whole Thorax is 100 cm – 1/10 is 10 cm); 50 — 10 = 40 (size 40 cm neck).

However, given that the real measure of the neck does not hold the same matter of proportion with chest for all sizes, this rule remains valid only for sizes from 46 to 52; for small sizes, the result increases by 0.5 cm. for each two inches below the 46, for large sizes decreases of the same measure for every two inches above the 52.

However, we believed it advisable to add a table of the neck sizes from 42 to 64 and their corresponding industrial measurements, (the industrial measurement is obtained by multiplying neck measurement by four and moving the comma of the result one place to the left).

MEN'S SHIRT

(Fìgg. 53 and 54)








MEASUREMENTS

The Half Thorax                      50 cm.         Decimal Fraction of Chest         10.0 cm.
Half Width of the Back      21 cm.         Sleeve length                           63 cm.
Neck Circumference              40 cm.         Length (a)                                85 cm.
                                                                               (a) half the height minus 3 to 5 cm.

Half Thorax 52cm – Half back 21.5
Half thorax 48 cm – Half back 20.5

Industrial size 16


INSTRUCTIONS

BACK

1 – 1' — 4 cm. one tenth of the neck.

1' – 2 — the one tenth of the chest plus half of the same.

2 – 2' — 10 cm. in every case.

1'-4 — Total Length.

1'-5— Same as 1 – 1' plus: 3 cm.

5-6 — middle of 1 – 1'; shape the curve of the neck line touching 6 and continue until you reach the horizontal.

5 – 8 — same as 1 – 2' plus 1.5 or 2 cm (otherwise measure the half width plus 3.5 or 4 cm, measuring 1'to .

8 – 9 — the third of 1' – 2 that is, half of the chest.

9 – 9' — cm. 4.

7 — Perpendicular from 8.

2' – 7' — half of the half thorax plus 5 or 6 cm; from 7', mark a perpendicular to the bottom.

7' – 13 — Half of 1'– 2' plus 8 cm..

13 – 13' — half of 13 – 14 cm plus 2 cm; up to 13 point, fall from the right 1.5 cm..

14 – 15 — same as 13' – 14 plus 2 or 3 cm; shape the round as in the graphic, or to taste.

63

For the yoke descend from 1' half of 1' – 2 minus 1 cm and square out to the external line of the shoulder, establishing a gap of a generous inch.  If one wishes to make two optional pleats at the scapula, you increase the width of the back from 3 to 4 cm.

FRONT

l - 2 - Same as 1-5 on the back.
l - 1 '- the amount of 1 - 2 plus about 1cm.

1 - 2 '- like the 1' - 2' of the back.

1 - 17 – same as the - 4 of the back or less 5cm.

2' - 8 - same as 2' - 7' of the back.

8 - 13 - 13'- same as 7'-13 - 13' of the back.

15 - 16 – same as 10 - 13' less 2cm; re-enter from 13 1.5cm.

2 - 5 – same as 5-8 of the back minus cm. 1, or measure from 1 to 5 as twice the decimal fraction of chest plus 2cm.

10-11 - as 7 - 9 of the back minus 3cm.

2-2 "- 2cm.

Re-enter from the line 11-10 1.5 cm and mark the curve as shown in the graph.

From the centre front line add 1.7 cm for overlap and from this line increase cm. 4.5 for the internal fold.

NECK BAND DRAFT

1 - 2 – half the neck circumference.

1 - 3 – 2 cm.

3 - 4 – 4 to 5 cm.

2 – 5 – from 7 to 8 cm. The position of point 5 is variable according to the fashion or as desired.

COLLAR

1 - 2 – same as 1 - 2 of the neck.

1 - 3 – 3 cm; from point 2, add 1.5 or 2 cm and draw as shown in the graph.

SLEEVE DRAFT

1 - 2 – the amount of 9 - 7 'of the back, measuring diagonally, plus cm. 2.

1 - 3 - Half of 1 - 2.

2- 4 – as with 2 - 3; join points 1 - 4 with a diagonal and mark 5 in the middle, then shape the line of the cap passing through point 6, which is established in the middle of 3 - 5.

1 - 7 - The length plus cm. 4, minus the height of the cuff.

7 - 8 - As much as 1 - 3 plus 5 or 6 cm.

8 - 9 - Half of 7 - 8

9 - 10 - Same as 1 - 5.

CUFF

Mark a rectangle 23 cm long. (two tenths of chest plus 3 cm) and 6.5 or 7 cm wide; then, round the tips as per the drawing or as desired.

DRAFTING THE COMBINED NECK BAND AND COLLAR

1 - 2 - Neck measurement.

1 - 3 - Half of 1 - 2; at 3 raise 0.5 cm and extend 2 cm from points 1 and 2.

1 - 1' and 2 - 2' – 2.5 cm.

1 - 4 and 2 - 5 - cm. 7.5 or as desired.

3 - 6 - As 1 - 4 minus cm. 1.5.

[peterle]

The problem though, is how do you calculate this for other sizes.  There is no included formula.

It could be a direct measurement, but that is not specified either.

That´s the problem with seperated pages of books, they lack the general part about measurments, calculations and info about SAs.
But I´m pretty sure it is a direct measurment. I found the back width as direct measurement in the "Il Modellismo" , there it is called "larghezza dorso"and "back width".

[Schneiderfrei]

Brilliant, peterle.  You are quite right about the fragmentation of the information.  Its why I have such a large library.

G